EDIT 25/02/2016: An updated version can be found here based on the firmware 4.30
SHOOTING MENU (RED)
BKT/Adv.SETTING>Adv. FILTER SELECT> On the top plate of the camera, under the ISO dial you will find the Drive mode selector. One of the options available is “ADV” What you get with this selection depends on what you will set it too from here. There are 13 options available so you won’t have any trouble finding something you like or need. Most may seem gimmicky, but for JPEG shooters, they are just another tool, and a good one at that. The MINIATURE setting is quite interesting offering a diorama effect. Other interesting selections are the PARTIAL COLOR where you end up with a monochrome image but retaining one particular color; like red!
NOTE: When bracketing either ISO, Film simulation, Dynamic range, or WB, then RAW file recording will be turned off which means all you get are JPEG's. The same happens when an advance filter is selected.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>FOCUS AREA> (NOTE: If FOCUS AREA is unavailable, check whether you are currently in FACE DETECTION mode). There are 5 sizes to select using the rear thumb wheel from largest (size 5) to smallest (size 1), with 3 being the default. From my experience so far, I find size 2 great for my everyday shooting style (using XF23 & XF56 wide open) offering tremendous precision. If however you are finding that AF seems slow, especially with the slower zooms, then try setting the AF box to 3 or even 4. Size 5 is less critical in its judgment, very fast and reduces the chances for hunting. You will lose some precision but will gain a lot of speed. When you have an AF point highlighted you can quickly set it to the default size 3 by pressing the Focus Assist button or just spin the thumb-wheel till you get the size you want.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>MACRO> With some lenses you can shoot closer (as far as I know they are thr XC range such as the XC 16-50mm), meaning you can reduce the minimum focusing distance for a larger magnification of your subject. But leaving this feature on all the time is not recommended since you will loose infinity focus and will be shooting in a shorter focusing range, usually up to 10m. So leave this option set to OFF and select it only when necessary.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>RELEASE/FOCUS PRIORITY> Like most cameras I have used in the past, you get two options for both modes of focusing, Release and Focus. When I was using film (LOL some of you may not have been born) I use to select Release because my faith in the tracking of the AF motor was not there and I relied on high frame rates for a chance that one frame may be a keeper. Over the years, my Nikon cameras got better and at some time I started using the Focus option with some level of success. Since switching to Fuji I was hesitant to use Focus for both settings, but my testing has proven otherwise, the AF overall is very precise and I can rely on the FOCUS option blindingly.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>INSTANT AF SETTING> When using AF lenses in Manual focus mode, you can hit the AF-L button to initiate focus and speed up the whole focusing process by placing the lens in the right zone instantly so you can spend more time on fine tuning your focus. You can select between AF-S or AF-C. If you are a street photographer who prefers Manual focusing you may select AF-C in anticipation for an action shot. I don’t find much use for this since I’m more of an AF guy, but I think most people may just leave this on its default setting of AF-S. If you find a good use for this menu setting, please leave a comment below.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>AF MODE> I’m pretty sure most photographers will have this set to AREA simply because it gives you full control of the focusing point. The other option, MULTI, seems very amateurish like since the camera decides on its own where to focus.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>FACE DETECTION> I was blown away by the performance of this tool. I honestly thought this would be another gimmick to avoid but when I first tried it, I was hooked. When the light starts to get really low or the subject is less defined, then I will switch face detection off and manually select my AF point. Face detection on the X-T1 is a very powerful tool that actually delivers; it really is a great asset for portrait and people photographers. I have this option set to OFF but have assigned FACE DETECTION to the front Fn button for quick and easy access.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>PRE-AF> This setting I am definitely leaving switched off. When set to ON, what it does is constantly focus as long as the camera is switched on. This is a feature that maybe a brute street photographer would like where he would have his subject already in focus by the time he lifts the camera to his eye! I don't like feeling and hearing the camera constantly working plus I would rather conserve battery power.
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>AF ILLUMINATOR> I used to shoot a lot of wildlife in the past with my Nikons. So out of habit, I always had this option set to off since I didn’t like spooking my subjects. Now with my Fuji’s I tried leaving this on for a while but found that it was a bit distracting both for me and my subject. I don't feel I'm gaining anything so I have now decided to leave this off. If you are a heavy flash shooter and use zooms, then maybe you will want this set to ON.
IMAGE SIZE> L 3:2
IMAGE QUALITY> FINE+RAW
DYNAMIC RANGE> 100% (I may choose AUTO under bright daylight)
FILM SIMULATION> ASTIA is my favorite choice for now. For a more in depth look at Film sim's and tone options, look at my blog post here.
SELF TIMER> OFF
INTERVAL TIMER SHOOTING> Pretty simple time lapse feature that is handy to have. In the first row you select the interval between shots in hours, minutes and seconds. In the second row you select the number of frames and then a new window pops up asking for the start time. If you just hit the OK button the time-lapse will start, otherwise you can set the start time for later.
WHITE BALANCE> AUTO, CUSTOM 1, CUSTOM 2, CUSTOM 3, COLOR TEMP, FINE, SHADE, FLUORESCENT 1, FLUORESCENT2, FLUORESCENT 3, INCANDESCENT and UNDERWATER.
The three new Custom options make the WB setting a better tool for the working professional. If you are an amateur I would suggest you leave this on AUTO. If you are a pro on a working assignment I would recommend you select the right value for the shoot. It’s not important to be exact, but rather consistent. This will help later during both selection and post. During the selection process it will be easier to judge keepers with a common WB and in post it will be easier to change WB in a uniform manner across multiple images. For paid assignments or when I have ample time I try to pick a suitable Kelvin value otherwise I usually have this on AUTO so my camera is ready to handle any situation as soon as it boots up.
NOTE: WB under tricky lighting: The CUSTOM setting is useful when in difficult low light situations. Once selected a large rectangle shows up on the screen which you point at a neutral color (white, grey or black) such as a sheet of A4 paper and press the shutter – immediately you will see the WB change to the technically correct value - If not try again with a different part of the scene. Now we can commence shooting knowing that we have a technically correct WB setting. Having the correct WB set during the shoot is useful because it provides us with a better histogram with less chances of blowing one of the color channels. Of course you can always change the technically correct WB later in post processing if you desire to change the mood of the image.
SHARPNESS> +1 (Personally I usually leave this at 0 since shooting primes wide open gives sharp results. My recommendation for +1 is for those shooting zooms)
HIGHLIGHT TONE> -2
SHADOW TONE> 0 NOTE: For a more in depth look at Film sim's and tone options, look at my blog post here.
NOISE REDUCTION>-2 (I highly recommend to all Fuji users to set this to -2, since Fuji's NR can result in unrealistic plastic looking skin).
LONG EXPOSURE NR> OFF (I leave this off and will use it only when I start noticing that its really needed. Feel free to pick what you want).
LENS MODULATION OPTIMIZER> ON
SELECT CUSTOM SETTINGS> Fuji offers seven custom setting slots for saving different settings for different shooting needs. Shame you can’t name them.
EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING> From here you can select the few options you can save to the Q menu.
MOUNT ADAPTER SETTING> Here you can save all your manual focusing lenses. If you can’t find a corresponding size, just pick one you don’t need and reenter the size you want. In the 50mm slot, LENS 5, I have set 12mm for my Samyang lens.
SHOOT WITHOUT LENS> ON (This needs to be set to ON if you want the camera to be able to use lenses without a chip for communication. So if you plan on using any kind of adapter for mounting lenses other than Fujinon, then you will need to set this to ON).
MF ASSIST> Fuji cameras are an excellent tool for using any kind of lens manually. There are 3 options for how the MF ASSIST option can help. Out of the 3 options the one I like best is FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT. The STANDARD option is very basic and DSLR like and the Split image is not that easy to use since the split is a bit hard to distinguish unless framing a flat surface - maybe useful for architectural photographers. The FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT option on the other hand is great for anyone wanting to nail focus quickly and with a great deal of precision. I personally select the RED(LOW) option.
AE/AF-LOCK MODE> I personally don’t use these buttons since switching to Fuji so I leave them as is on the PRESSING option. I have so much control with the dials on top of the camera that I don’t need the lock modes, though I’m sure they can be handy to some. You get two choices, AE&AF ON WHEN PRESSING or AE&AF ON/OFF SWITCH. They are pretty much self explanatory, take your pick.
AF-LOCK MODE> Just like above, take your pick, I personally leave this on AF LOCK ONLY.
FLASH MODE> Plenty of choices here. Select between FORCED FLASH, SLOW SYNCRO, 2ND CURTAIN, COMMANDER and SUPPRESSED FLASH.
FLASH COMPENSATION> From habit, I will most probably be setting this to -1 stop.
RED EYE REMOVAL> OFF
MOVIE SETUP>MOVIE MODE> 1920X1080 60FPS
MOVIE SETUP>MIC LEVEL ADJUSTMENT> 2
MOVIE SETUP>MIC/REMOTE RELEASE> If using an aftermarket release that uses the MIC port, you'll need to set this to REMOTE.
IS MODE> I have noticed better results in the finished image when selecting SHOOTING ONLY plus I like it better this way since it interferes less with my viewing and I have a feeling it may even conserve some power.
WIRELESS COMMUNICATION> Just connect using my How to article here
APERTURE SETTING> This option will be available only if you have an XC series lens mounted on the camera, otherwise it will be faded and not available.
SHUTTER TYPE> Firmware version 3.0 now adds a SHUTTER TYPE option to the shooting menu with 3 possible choices. One of the X-T1’s weak spots was its maximum shutter speed of 1/4000sec, especially when you consider those fast prime lenses such as the 23mm and the 56mm. Most photographers investing in the Fuji system are doing so more for their lust for creative bokeh effects, which unfortunately is hard to get in broad daylight. So you’re either forced to use an ND filter slowing down your shooting style or limit your bokeh creaminess by stopping down the aperture! Now thanks to the new firmware, the X-T1 can shoot with a speed up to 1/32,000sec which is a full 3 stop advantage allowing a wide open aperture for nearly all daylight conditions?
MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC: From those three nearly everyone will be setting the Hybrid mode as their default shutter choice for obvious reasons - It gives you the best of both worlds. If ELECTRONIC SHUTTER or MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC is selected, shutter speeds faster than 1/4000s will be chosen automatically in Program AE and Aperture Priority AE or they can be chosen manually in Shutter Priority AE or Manual mode by rotating the shutter speed dial to 4000 and then rotating the command dial to the desired speed. Plus you can use flash / strobes and triggers with this mode since flash sync speeds are covered by the mechanical shutter, though I would still select the mechanical shutter option if using flash / strobes regularly for eliminating any incompatibility issues or other bugs.
ELECTRONIC: Selecting the ELECTRONIC shutter is of great use to photographers who need to shoot in complete silence and this is a very common need for a lot of working professionals especially in nursery’s, theaters, churches or movie sets (no more sound blimp necessary). For those who choose the ELECTRONIC shutter option, you do get the choice of adding some sound with the new SHUTTER SOUND and SHUTTER VOLUME options in the setup menu for a more positive shooting experience or muting the sound altogether. Also take note that the longest shutter speed is 1sec, ISO is restricted between 200-6400 and in the burst mode, focus and exposure are fixed at the values for the first shot in each burst. But there are some drawbacks with the ELECTRONIC shutter that you must be aware of before selecting it as your default choice. Please read the ELECTRONIC SHUTTER towards the end of the article.
MECHANICAL: Last but not least, the mechanical shutter option will still be needed for many photography situations. Studio and advertising photographers will be selecting this option more than anyone else simply because any strobe or flash work cannot be used with an electronic shutter; they are technically incompatible with each other. The use of any remote triggers such as the popular Pocket Wizards won’t fire unless you have selected the Mechanical shutter option.
AF+MF> Thankfully, this is a menu option and not hardwired into the camera like I initially had thought, because my preference is for OFF. If you select this option to YES you will get manual focus override while in AF mode. You half press the shutter to autofocus on your subject and then if you desire so, you can fine tune the focus with the manual focus ring while still having the shutter half depressed. This is a nice touch for those who may be experiencing AF issues, whether in low light or not, otherwise leave it OFF. If you are thinking we already had this, you are not that wrong since the AF-L button in Manual focus mode gave us instant AF when needed. But there is a major difference you need to be aware off. In Manual Focus mode the scene is viewed with the aperture wide-open making FOCUS PEAKING real easy. Instead in AF+MF mode, the scene viewed through the EVF is shown with the selected working aperture engaged which means you will be manually trying to pin point your focus with a larger DOF – not easy but maybe a great option for landscapers who would like to evaluate DOF.
INTERLOCK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA> Together with the electronic shutter this is a huge update. I have been longing for this feature since leaving Nikon. Select ON to have the spot metering sensor tag along the AF area position so whatever you focus on is also your spot metering sample! (as long as Spot is selected as the metering of choice).
SETUP MENU (BLUE)
TIME DIFFERENCE> If you are traveling to another part of the planet, this feature allows you to add the time difference required for your destination of travel.
LANG.> If you don’t select English, the camera may show signs of slow focusing performance.
RESET> If you require to ever reset your camera this is the place to do it. Select SHOOTING MENU RESET>OK and then SETUP RESET>OK. Resetting both menus will basically reset all options back to their factory default without affecting Date, Time and Language.
SILENT MODE> If you think this is for you then select ON. But double think about what you are disabling with this option. Unfortunately apart from all sounds, SILENT mode will also disable all flash capabilities together with the focus illuminator. I highly recommend you leave this set to OFF unless you really know you need it.
SOUND SET-UP>SOUND SETUP>OPERATING VOLUME>1
SOUND SET-UP>SOUND SETUP> SHUTTER VOLUME>1
SOUND SET-UP>SOUND SETUP> SHUTTER SOUND>1
I like to be able to hear what the camera is doing so I set both OPERATION and SHUTTER to the lowest level possible but not OFF. Some prefer total silence, but I find it difficult to work sufficiently with no sound whatsoever.
SOUND SET-UP>PLAYBACK VOL> Level 5
SCREEN SETUP>IMAGE DISP> This will govern how long to show your captured image or not to show it at all. Choices are 1.5sec, 0.5sec or continuously (until the user presses the Menu/OK button or the shutter release). My personal choice is to set this to OFF. I don’t need to inspect every image plus it can become distracting while shooting. NOTE: After 1 year of use, I have come to the conclusion that my biggest energy saving option is this one. I get well over 500 shots with a fully charged Fujifilm battery. Everyone who has contacted me complaining about low battery performance usually has this option set to display the image just taken.
SCREEN SETUP>EVF AUTOROTATE DISPLAYS> At first I wasn’t to keen on this, maybe because I was still accustomed to my optical viewfinders traditional behavior. After using the X-T1 for nearly a year, I now love this feature and have it turned ON.
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW EXP. WB IN MANUAL MODE> I like this feature a lot and have it always selected (EXP/WB). The EVF shows an approximation of the final image and its a really nice feature. Beware though, if you are going to shoot with strobes in Manual mode, you may want to set this Off to prevent a dark viewfinder. This is now easily done since you can program a Fn button for this.
(For more info check out the WYSIWYG section below)
SCREEN SETUP>EVF BRIGHTNESS> 0
SCREEN SETUP>EVF COLOR> 0
SCREEN SETUP>LCD BRIGHTNESS> 0
SCREEN SETUP>LCD COLOR> 0
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW PIC EFFECT> ON (For more info check out the WYSIWYG section below)
SCREEN SETUP>FRAMING GUIDELINE> GRID 9
SCREEN SETUP>AUTOROTATE PB> I leave this OFF simply because I prefer to view the image I have just taken utilizing the whole screen – I don’t mind twisting the camera to view vertical shots.
SCREEN SETUP>BACKGROUND COLOR> GOLD
SCREEN SETUP>FOCUS CHECK> With this option set to ON when in manual focus mode then as soon as you move the focusing ring on a Fujinon XF compatible lens, the view in the EVF/LCD will be magnified which will make it easier to judge and nail focus. At first I had this set to ON, but I have since changed my mind. I use a lot of manual lenses and found it irritating every-time I went to focus manually, the view didn't magnify as expected. After remembering that this wasn't a Fujinon lens, I had to remember to press the Focus Assist button. So now in order to use the same technique when manual focusing, I select OFF for this option.
SCREEN SETUP>FOCUS SCALE UNITS> METERS
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> I have my selections for you ready but first let me suggest a good way to pick your own settings. Uncheck all options and then check one at a time as you view each one in the viewfinder. As you are looking through the EVF ponder on how useful the item really is to your shooting style. Also don’t forget that with all options selected, you are draining extra power only to have a cluttered screen. So my advice is to select only what is truly necessary. It will make your photography much more pleasurable.
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING>FRAMING GUIDELINE>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> ELECTRONIC LEVEL>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> AF DISTANCE INDICATOR>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> MF DISTANCE INDICATOR>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> HISTOGRAM>OFF (When I first got the X-T1 I had this set to ON, mostly from habit of being a DSLR user. But now that I have lived with the X-T1’s WYSIWYG EVF for nearly a year I have come to realize that for my people photography the histogram is now redundant. I now know that a representation of my pixels on a graph is not needed since the WYSIWYG view is more than enough to judge exposure. On the other hand landscapers may find it useful to have it on simply because they often push the boundaries of the cameras dynamic range, so for them, the more precision they can get, the better!)
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> APERTURE/S-SPEED/ISO>ON
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> EXP. COMPENSATION>ON
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> PHOTOMETRY>ON
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> FLASH>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> WHITE BALANCE>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> FILM SIMULATION>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> DYNAMIC RANGE>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> FRAMES REMAINING>ON
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> IMAGE SIZE/QUALITY>OFF
SCREEN SETUP>DISP. CUSTOM SETTING> BATTERY LEVEL>ON
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING> Further down we will set the 4 D-buttons for AF so they cant be used as Function buttons. Unfortunately, we don’t get to use the Video button for any functions either so in all practical terms we only get 2 custom function buttons. My most valuable features are Fn1>FACE DETECTION and Fn2>PREVIEW EXP/WB IN MANUAL MODE.
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>COMMAND DIAL SETTING> I leave this at its default.
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING> This is where the magic happens. Select FOCUS AREA and your D-pad buttons are locked for AF point selection.
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>AE-L/AF-L BUTTON SETTING> This function will seem very useful for many. It allows you to switch the positions of the AE-L and AF-L buttons.
ISO DIAL SETTING> I leave this as is H1:12800, H2:25600. If you are a paparazzi using an X-T1 then this might be of interest to you, though with no long telephoto available I doubt you would be using this camera!
FOCUS RING> CW
POWER MANAGEMENT>AUTO POWER OFF> 2MIN
POWER MANAGEMENT>HIGH PERFORMANCE> I have this switched ON so as to assure I get the best performance from the camera. I also have 3 batteries at the moment and they seem more than adequate for my usage. In the start power seemed a problem, but with use, I now get a large number of shots per charge.
SENSOR CLEANING>WHEN SWITCHED ON> OFF
SENSOR CLEANING>WHEN SWITCHED OFF> The obvious choice for everyone here is to select ON for every time you turn off the camera. I have found in the past with my Nikon cameras that this feature helps in a big way to keep the sensor as clan as possible.
SAVE DATA SETUP>FRAME NO> CONTINUOUS
SAVE DATA SETUP>SAVE ORG. IMAGE> OFF
SAVE DATA SETUP>EDIT FILE NAME> Now we have the ability to add a meaningful file name to our images.
COLOR SPACE> If you don’t know the answer to this, then set it to sRGB, end of subject. If you insist on wanting to know why has Fuji (and all other manufacturers for that matter) given you the choice, then read on. The Adobe RGB option is for those photographers who want the most out of their files. These photographers all shoot RAW. Fuji’s RAW file is just raw data that can be put into a restricted color space later when exporting from your favorite RAW converter. These photographers usually have everything calibrated from start to finish in a very wide space such as Pro Photo RGB or Adobe RGB. But as most of you already know, RAW files don't need tagging, and JPEG's are sRGB, so why have the option for Adobe RGB? Because some people insist on shooting JPEG’s in Adobe RGB, how dumb! Also note that your choice of color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) will affect the way your images are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF. Don’t think so, try it! I leave this to sRGB.
CONN. SETTING>WIRELESS SETTINGS>GENERAL SETTINGS>NAME> FUJIFILM-X-T1-0EBE
CONN SETTING>WIRELESS SETTINGS>GENERAL SETTINGS> RESET WIRELESS SETTING
CONN SETTING>WIRELESS SETTINGS>RESIZE IMAGE FOR SMARTPHONE(3MB)> ON
CONN SETTING>WIRELESS SETTINGS>PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS>
CONN SETTING>PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS>SIMPLE SETUP>
CONN SETTING>PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS>MANUAL SETUP>
CONN SETTING>GEOTAGGING SETUP>GEOTAGGING> ON
CONN SETTING>GEOTAGGING SETUP>LOCATION INFO> ON
CONN SETTING>INSTAX PRINTER CONNECTION SETTING> ON
EDIT/SAVE QUICK MENU> Select your customs settings of choice.
USB MODE> MTP(PTP), PCSHOOT AUTO, PC SHOOT FIXED
LOCK>FUNCTION SELECTION> Here you can select which functions to lock FOCUS MODE SELECTOR, APERTURE, SHUTTER SPEED, ISO DIAL, EXP. COMP.DIAL, DRIVE DIAL, METERING DIAL, O.I.S.SWITCH, PROGRAM SHIFT, Q BUTTON, VIEW MODE BUTTON, DISP, AE-L, AF-L, FOCUS ASSIST BUTTON, MOVIE RECORD BUTTON, Fn1, Fn2, Fn3, Fn4, Fn5, Fn6, AF MODE, FACE DETECTION, WHITE BALANCE, FILM SIMULATION, OTHER SHOOTING MENU, FORMAT, ERASE, DATE/TIME/TIME DIFF, RESET, SILENT MODE, SOUND SETUP, SCREEN SETUP, COLOR SPACE and finally OTHER SETUP MENU. Wow, what a long list!
NOTE: Be careful if you use this function. I'm already seeing plenty of requests for help from users who found their cameras behaving strangely after the update only to find out that that had locked certain features which obviously would render some dials as non-functioning!
FORMAT> I recommend you format your card before every new shoot!
RAW CONVERSION>REFLECT SHOOTING COND>
RAW CONVERSION>PUSH/PULL PROCESSING>
RAW CONVERSION>DYNAMIC RANGE>
RAW CONVERSION>FILM SIMULATION>
RAW CONVERSION>WHITE BALANCE>
RAW CONVERSION>WB SHIFT>
RAW CONVERSION>HIGHLIGHT TONE>
RAW CONVERSION>SHADOW TONE>
RAW CONVERSION>NOISE REDUCTION>
RAW CONVERSION>LENS MODULATION OPTIMIZER>
RAW CONVERSION>COLOR SPACE>
RESIZE> MEDIUM, SMALL, 640
PROTECT> FRAME, SET ALL, RESET ALL
RED EYE REMOVAL>
MARK FOR UPLOAD TO> YOUTUBE
MARK FOR UPLOAD TO> FACEBOOK
MARK FOR UPLOAD TO> MYFINEPIX.COM
MARK FOR UPLOAD TO> RESET ALL
IMAGE SEARCH> BY DATE
IMAGE SEARCH> BY FACE
IMAGE SEARCH> BY FAVORITES
IMAGE SEARCH> BY TYPE OF DATA
IMAGE SEARCH> BY UPLOAD MARK
PC AUTO SAVE>
INSTAX PRINTER PRINT>
With my X-T1 I mainly use on a daily basis the 23mm, the 56mm and the 18-55mm with some experience with the 50-200mm and 35mm as far as AF lenses are concerned. Once the camera is set up the right way, the performance of most lenses mentioned is very good to excellent. I am very happy with their performance, but I wouldn’t say no to some improvements especially regarding focusing noise and speed. Accuracy is outstanding and in most cases speed is acceptable to very good. The two zoom’s are the best AF performers of the lot with the primes falling a little behind in speed and making a little more noise than I would like.
Best performance tips
If you have followed my suggestions above, then your camera is set up for the best possible performance in speed, precision and power consumption. Lets have a quick look again at the most important settings:
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>FOCUS AREA> Size 2 for primes & precision, Size 4 for zooms & speed
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>MACRO> OFF
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>AF MODE> AREA
AUTOFOCUS SETTING>PRE-AF> OFF
LONG EXPOSURE NR> OFF
IS MODE> SHOOTING ONLY
INTERLOCK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA> ON
POWER MANAGEMENT>AUTO POWER OFF> 2MIN
POWER MANAGEMENT>HIGH PERFORMANCE> ON
SENSOR CLEANING>WHEN SWITCHED OFF> ON
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING>Fn1> FACE DETECTION
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING>Fn2> PREV.EXP/WB MANUAL
BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING> FOCUS AREA
We also get 4 options for the rear LCD: INFO DISPLAY, STANDARD, INFORMATION OFF and CUSTOM. Hit the DISP BACK button to scroll through the different displays and pick your favorite one. I'm finding that I use the INFO DISPLAY the most, next CUSTOM and third STANDARD. The INFORMATION OFF is hardly used.
- The way I have set up the camera, I can quickly switch from selecting AF points with the rear D-pad to Face Detection just by pressing the Fn1 button.
- Continuous AF on the X-T1 can seem strange at first. When you half press the shutter release and wait for a clear picture in the viewfinder don’t be surprised if you don’t get it! Sometimes, it was worse in firmware version 1, the picture in the EVF would stutter. This was baptized aperture dance because it had something to do with the aperture blades. If you become witness to this phenomenon don’t pause, just press the shutter all the way and take the sequence, I’m sure all your shots will be fine.
- All your Shooting menu decisions, including the color profile you’ll select (sRGB or Adobe RGB) will affect the way your shots are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF.
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW PIC EFFECT> OFF
With both options turned off you get a low contrast and smooth view of the scene with good shadow detail. The only change you will notice is that of flickering while the EVF/LCD tries to balance the light level as you point the camera from a dark scene to a lighter scene or vice versa. I can’t think of anyone using this, but for Fuji to give us this option, then obviously some group asked for it, maybe manual focus users. Note that in this mode using the exposure compensation dial will affect the light level of the EVF/LCD.
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW EXP. WB IN MANUAL MODE>EXP.WB
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW PIC EFFECT> OFF
With exposure and WB turned on and picture effects off, we get to see the effects of any exposure changes plus our choice of WB. What we don’t see are the effects of the Film simulations or other image adjustments that are found in the menu such as shadow and highlight tone etc. Note that the neutral color effect seen is the same for all color film simulations. If you select a BW simulation, you get a neutral monochrome effect for all BW simulations and Sepia gets a neutral effect of its own. Note that in this mode using the exposure compensation dial will affect the light level of the EVF/LCD.
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW EXP. WB IN MANUAL MODE> EXP.WB
SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW PIC EFFECT>ON
With both options active we get to see all changes in the EVF/LCD as they will affect the final outcome. This is the WYSIWYG effect that I prefer and love!
For starters it’s not recommended for fast moving subjects due to the rolling shutter phenomenon. So in electronic shutter mode you can’t freeze fast action. This is because the electronic shutter scans the image horizontally across the sensor in thick strips, which in some cases may even deform your moving subject.
Secondly because of the way the exposure is taken (line by line) like a fast scanning process, most flickering light sources (eg: fluorescent, mercury, sodium etc) may produce unpleasant results with visible and obtrusive banding or even fogging effects. Under a continuous light source such as daylight, the electronic shutter works fine.
Last but not least, in Electronic shutter mode you can't use flash. You have to be in Mechanical or Mechanical+Electronic shutter mode for flash to work. This practically means that its not a sensible choice for the studio or any assignment that would require flashes, strobes or triggers.
So I reported the other day that I had some responsiveness issues when using only the electronic shutter and that more testing was needed. So i tried to replicate my performance woes when using just the Electronic shutter but to no avail. So maybe it was a combination of options that triggered it which unfortunately I didn't get a chance to record. The good news is that the way I have set up my camera now, all is good.
At this point I would like to point out that the electronic shutter is performing just fine especially for the majority of subjects that we may come across. Obviously, if you shoot a spinning fan or get someone to wave his hands fast enough close to the lens, then you may get the rolling shutter effect but otherwise for the majority of everyday subjects we shouldn’t have a problem. I have tried (not too hard ) to get the rolling shutter effect by shooting people walking, moving traffic, fast paced trams, pigeons in flight etc but all my shots so far so no signs of rolling shutter. So this new attribute is a big welcome to my Fuji X-T1.
The big reason why so many of us Fuji users were and still are excited about the electronic shutter is that now we are able to use wide open apertures in daylight without the need for an ND filters. The second reason is that an electronic shutter is completely silent - a big plus for many paying assignments!
You have been warned about the drawback of electronic shutters so don’t rush to blame Fuji for a weak product, though I’m predicting that there are going to be many such cases on the forums.