Film sims & tips
OK, so getting nice JPEG's straight out of camera for printing is no big news. But just the other day, something happened that made me appreciate having such a wonderful conversion tool on board the X-T1. While working some images on my PC I got stuck on one particular image that I just couldn't get right. I did this and that, and in the end, I let it go. A few days later I placed the RAF file on my SD card and used the X-T1 for some editing and I was pleasantly surprised to find that just after a couple of tries I finally got the image I was after.
Since then I have come to realize that for certain select images it may be more productive and more fun to do the conversions right on the back of the camera. So don't underestimate your on-board converter, its a very powerful and capable tool.
Of course, if your a RAW shooter none of this really matters, as you can process the images yourself. But what I have found is that no matter how you process them, sometimes what comes out of the onboard converter is just unbeatable.
X-T1 RAF converter
Which film sim do you recommend
Film sim's in lOW CONTRAST
Film sim's in aVERAGE CONTRAST
Film sim's in High contrast
Under the HIGHLIGHT TONE one can dial in SOFT (-2), M.SOFT (-1), STD (0), M.HARD (+1), or HARD (+2). Looking at the examples I have supplied, its easy to see that the adjustments though faint are also distinct at the same time. The SOFT selection is quite nice bringing plenty of detail into highlights and I can see a lot of people using this as it works quite well. On the opposite side, the HARD selection is quite harsh as it blocks plenty of shadow areas and it probably will be used less by most folks. Plus lets not forget that most of the Fuji film sims already have super rich blacks so its hard to imagine why you would want more with these settings.
PS: I find a lot of my friends who are JPEG users under-exposing unintentionally with gross blacks so make sure you are not underexposing - don't be afraid to push exposure on the Fuji ;-)