setting up the fujifilm x-t1

19/3/2014

Fujifilm X-T1 & XF23mm f/1.4R ISO 200 1/1800sec @ f/2.8

intro

EDIT 22/12/2014: This article has been rewritten with much more updated information, tips and explanations including all the new Firmware 3.0 options and can be found here: XT1 Setup guide Ver.3.00

Fuji cameras are an excellent choice for people, street and studio photography. And that goes for the X-T1 as well. Currently there are no long lenses for the X series and Continuous AF with tracking can be found only on the new X-T1, but even with its 8fps shooting ability, the X-T1 is not a sports or wildlife camera (not yet anyway) since Fuji doesn't offer a capable long prime or sports zoom.

The X-T1 is a very capable tool in the right hands since it can track fast moving subjects at 8fps, but it does have some limitations. Once understood and mastered the Fuji X-T1 can become the best camera out there for shooting people. But to master such a nice camera, you first need to set it up properly for your needs. So if like me you are coming from a DSLR, you may find some things confusing as far as setting it up. With this article I will try to help you through all the options.

EVF: One thing that is new to me, coming from a DSLR is the EVF. Unlike the optical viewfinder of a DSLR, the EVF is bright under all conditions and carries much more information to the eye. I can now shoot more comfortably since the EVF constantly shows me any changes to exposure. With my DSLR I had to constantly remind myself to keep an eye on the exposure bar in the viewfinder. As long as you have set “Preview Exposure in M mode” to ON, what you see is what you get, WYSIWYG. Of course in bright sunlight, you may face a washed out viewfinder so you may need to turn off the “Preview Exposure in M mode” or carry with you a ND filter such as the NDx16 which cuts down the light entering the camera by 4 stops. Here is another benefit of the EVF, unlike my DSLR where the viewfinder darkens so much that I can’t see anything with the filter attached; the EVF shows me the WYSIWYG result of my exposure parameter settings, WOW!

EVF SETUP: Here you have the following 5 options: EVF, LCD ONLY, EVF ONLY & EYE SENSOR, and EYE SENSOR. So far, I have found that I am using the EYE SENSOR option the most. To set your selection press the VIEWMODE button on the EVF hump while at the same time looking through the viewfinder.

EVF vs LCD: I have friends who are thinking of investing in the XM-1 which has no EVF and relies only on the rear LCD for all viewing and framing, so I thought it would be a nice place to point out some of the advantages of the viewfinder, in this case the EVF. For starters, by pressing the camera to your face, you not only end up with a more steady platform to shoot from but you are helping to absorb some of the vibrations from the shutter, especially when in the 1/30sec range. So the right holding technique with the camera up against the face helps in low light situations. The second advantage is that it’s much easier to frame and track a subject that’s in motion through the EVF. Plus for older guys like myself, I can adjust the EVF using the diopter dial for a very sharp and clear view. Unfortunately, looking at the LCD requires a long stretch of the arms or wearing glasses (LOL). Finally, let’s not forget the biggest disadvantage of the rear LCD, they are too difficult to view under bright daylight conditions. So the EVF wins hands down!

Fujifilm X-T1 & XF23mm f/1.4R ISO 200 1/240sec @ f/2.0 A case where Face detection has not picked the eye closest to the camera. This is because the contrast on the eye closest to the camera is getting very low and Face detection automatically changes to the next eye with more light falling on it.

q menu

Preferences in the Q menu mainly affect JPEG’s and aren’t really relevant to RAW shooters like myself, but I’m finding the JPEG output so bloody amazing, that I’m starting to pay much more attention to them. What this means is that while previously, with my Nikon gear, I shot exclusively RAW and disregarded all jpeg options, now I’m actually shooting for the best possible JPEG and using the RAW file as a backup only - what a turn around!

In the Q Menu you can also have you favorite selections saved to a numbered Custom Setting. In total you can have 7 Custom Settings saved as C1, C2, C3, and so on. You can then recall a certain Custom Setting for certain shooting conditions / subjects. I have 2 set at the moment and can see me using more, if only Fuji would allow for the Custom Settings to be named instead of just numbered. I should also point out here that when you select a Custom Setting, you don’t need to do anything else, it’s selected until you change it. Problem is if you hit the Q button again to check where you’re at; it displays BASE instead of your chosen Custom Setting! I’m pretty sure that in the first firmware update from Fuji, we will see these little things fixed.

CUSTOM SETTING: BASE (Choose your saved custom setting)
AF MODE: Area
DYNAMIC RANGE: DR100 (AUTO under bright daylight)
WHITE BALANCE: WB Auto
NOISE REDUCTION: NR-2
IMAGE SIZE: L3:2
IMAGE QUALITY: RAW-F
FILM SIMULATION: STD (PROVIA) (Ns under bright daylight)
HIGHLIGHT TONE: H Tone 0
SHADOW TONE: S Tone +1 (0 under bright daylight)
COLOR: Color 0
SHARPNESS: Sharp 0
SELF TIMER: OFF
FACE DETECTION: OFF (ON when required)
FLASH MODE: Disabled
LCD BRIGHTNESS: -2 (After comparing the LCD with my calibrated monitor)

NOTE: All your menu setup decisions, including sRGB or Adobe RGB color profile will affect the way your shots are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF.

shooting menu

DRV/BKT/Adv.SETTING/BKT SELECT: AE BKT (Set all at +/- 1stop)
AF/AUTOFOCUS SETTING
FOCUS AREA: There are 5 sizes available, with 3 being the default – I personally like 2 for its precision in my style of shooting.
MACRO: OFF
RELEASE/FOCUS PRIORITY: I have selected Focus for both modes
INSTANT AF SETTING: This affects the AF mode when pressing the AF-L button in manual focus mode (if you are a DSLR user you wouldn’t understand, it’s a Fuji thing!)
AF MODE: I have this set to AREA because it gives you full control of focusing. Multi is very amateurish like.
FACE DETECTION: I was blown away by the performance of this tool. I honestly thought this would be another gimmick to avoid but when I first tried it, I was hooked. When the light starts to get really low or the subject is less defined, then I will switch face detection off and manually select my AF point. Face detection on the X-T1 is a very powerful tool that actually delivers; it really is a great asset for portrait and people photographers.
PRE-AF: For the time being I will be leaving this switched off. When switched on I don't like feeling and hearing the camera constantly focusing plus if you would like to conserve battery power then its a no brainer.
AF ILLUMINATOR: Personally, and probably more out of habit, I always have this option set to off. I don’t like lights spooking my subjects.

ISO AUTO SETTING
DEFAULT SENSITIVITY: 200
MAX.SENSITIVITY: 3200
MIN. SHUTTER SPEED: 1/100
I prefer Aperture Priority mode for the majority of my work in conjunction with Auto ISO and Auto WB. I usually set the ISO range from base 200 to a maximum of 3200 and my minimum shutter speed at 1/100sec. The shutter speed is something that can change, depending on the shooting conditions (Since acquiring the camera I haven’t had a need to change this, though keep in mind my longest lens for now is the 56mm). For those of you new to the X-T1, to set Aperture Priority mode, just swing the aperture ring to any position other than A (Auto) and make sure the Shutter dial is set to A (Auto). When I’m not using Auto ISO, I’m usually set at 200 ISO. The nice thing about the X-T1 is that I can quickly set any ISO using the dial. I don’t mind the locking feature but for those who do, there is a solution here. Also take note, that Fuji does not give us RAW files when selecting ISO H1, H2 and L(100). ;-(
IMAGE SIZE: L 3:2
IMAGE QUALITY: FINE/RAW
DYNAMIC RANGE: 100% (AUTO under bright daylight)
FILM SIMULATION: STD (PROVIA) / (PRO NEG under bright daylight)
SELF TIMER: OFF
WHITE BALANCE: AUTO
COLOR: 0
SHARPNESS: 0
HIGHLIGHT TONE: 0
SHADOW TONE: +1 (0 under strong daylight)
NOISE REDUCTION: -2
LONG EXPOSURE NR: ON
LENS MODULATION OPTIMIZER: ON
MOUNT ADAPTER SETTING: LENS 5 (I have the Samyang fisheye, so I set this to 8MM)
SHOOT WITHOUT LENS: YES (for lens adapters or lenses with no electronic chip)
If you plan on using any kind of adapter for mounting lenses other than Fujinon, then you will need to set this to ON. Even aftermarket lenses such as the 8mm f/2.8 Samyang which is void of any electrical contacts needs this option set to ON as well.
MF ASSIST: PEAK
Like many have noted in the past, Fuji cameras excel at manual focusing. There are 3 options for how the MF Assist option can help. Out of the 3 options the one I like best is Highlight. The STD option is very basic and DSLR like (LOL) and the Split image is very disappointing unless you are shooting flat objects (maybe useful for architectural photographers). The Highlight option in Focus peaking mode is such a great tool (I don’t know if this has been used by other manufacturers – please inform me) and extremely easy and precise. You can also magnify the center portion of the image at 100% for even more precision!
AE/AF LOCK MODE: AE & AF ON WHEN PRESSING
AF-LOCK MODE: AF LOCK ONLY
FLASH MODE: DISABLE
FLASH COMPENSATION: -1STOP
RED EYE REMOVAL: OFF

MOVIE SETUP
MOVIE MODE: 1920X1080 60FPS
MIC LEVEL ADJUSTMENT: 3
MIC/REMOTE RELEASE: REMOTE (If using an aftermarket release that uses the MIC port, you'll need to set this to RR)
IS MODE: CONTINUOUS
APERTURE SETTING: AUTO
From what I understand, the above two options are for the cheaper XC range of lenses.

setup menu

SILENT MODE: OFF
If you select ON then you'll disable the speaker, the flash and the focus illuminator. I personally leave this off .
SOUND SET-UP
I like to be able to hear the camera so I set this at the lowest level possible. Some prefer total silence, but I find it difficult to work quickly with no sound.
OPERATION VOL.: 1 (LOWEST)
PLAYBACK VOL.: 4

SCREEN SETUP
IMAGE DISP.: OFF
Choices are to show the image for 1.5 sec, 0.5sec or continuously (until the user presses the Menu/OK button or the shutter release). My personal choice is to set this to OFF. I don’t need to inspect every image plus it can become distracting while shooting.
EVF AUTOROTATE DISPLAYS: OFF
For anyone shooting editorial or portraits, this may be a useful option. Personally, I have stopped doing verticals so I will be setting this to OFF. Even if I do shoot a vertical composition, I prefer all the display information to stay in its place.
PREVIEW EXP. MANUAL MODE: ON
I like this feature a lot and have it set to always ON. The EVF shows an approximation of the final image and its a really nice feature. I call this the WYSIWYG viewfinder. Beware though, if you are going to shoot with strobes in Manual mode, you may want to set this Off to prevent a dark viewfinder. Hopefully with their next firmware update Fuji will disable this feature automatically when any kind of flash is detected either on the hotshoe or the sync port.
EVF/LCD BRIGHTNESS: -2
FRAMING GUIDELINE: GRID 9
AUTOROTATE PB: OFF
I leave this OFF simply because I prefer to view the image I have just taken utilizing the whole screen – I don’t mind twisting the camera to view vertical shots. Plus I pretty much stopped taking vertical shots since ceasing my editorial work.
FOCUS CHECK: ON
I like this feature, as soon as you rotate the focus ring on the lens the image in the viewfinder or on the LCD will zoom in to allow for precise focusing.
FOCUS SCALE UNITS: METERS
DISP. CUSTOM SETTING: I have disabled the following: Electronic level, Flash, White balance, Film simulation, Dynamic range, Image size/quality
FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING
Until something changes with a future firmware update, my AF needs require the following setup: (Fn1: Face Detection, Fn2: AF Mode, Fn3: Focus Area, Fn4: Focus Area, Fn5: Focus Area, Fn6: Focus Area). This allows me to have quick selection of my focus point and when shooting people in the right conditions (eg: good to decent light) I can switch to Face Detection.

Fn1: Face Detection
Fn2: WIRELESS COMMUNICATION
Fn3: Focus Area
Fn4: Focus Area
Fn5: Focus Area
Fn6: Focus Area

COMMAND DIAL SETTING: AS IS (SS/F)
ISO DIAL SETTING: H1:12800, H2:25600
FOCUS RING: CW

POWER MANAGEMENT
AUTO POWER OFF: 2MIN
HIGH PERFORMANCE: ON
I have this switched ON so as to assure I get the best performance from the camera. I also have 3 batteries at the moment (you Nikonians can stop laughing now!)

SENSOR CLEANING
WHEN SWITCHED ON: OFF
WHEN SWITCHED OFF: ON
The obvious choice for everyone here is to select “When switched OFF” I have found in the past with my Nikon cameras that this feature helps in a big way to keep the sensor as clan as possible.

SAVE DATA SETUP
FRAME NO.: CONTINUOUS
SAVE ORG. IMAGE: OFF
COLOR SPACE: sRGB
If you don’t know the answer to this, then set it to sRGB, end of subject. If you insist on wanting to know why has Fuji (and all other manufacturers for that matter) given you the choice, then read on. The Adobe RGB option is for those photographers who want the most out of their files. These photographers all shoot RAW. Fuji’s RAW file is just raw data that can be put into a restricted color space later when exporting from your favorite RAW converter. These photographers usually have everything calibrated from start to finish in a very wide space such as Pro Photo RGB or Adobe RGB. So RAW files don't need tagging, and JPEG's are sRGB, so why have the option for Adobe RGB? Because some people insist on shooting JPEG’s in Adobe RGB, how dumb! Also note that your choice of color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) will affect the way your images are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF. Don’t think so, try it!

WIRELESS SETTING
RESIZE IMAGE FOR SMARTPHONE: ON (3MB)
GEOTAGGING SETUP
GEOTAGGING: ON
LOCATION INFO: ON

af setup

Since acquiring the X-T1 I have found that the AF is very good to excellent. Some say the first generation of lenses is slow. With the X-T1 I have only used thus far the 23mm, the 35mm, the 56mm and the 18-55 zoom with the zoom being the best AF performer of the lot – not that the primes are bad, they are just as good, only ever so slightly slower and a bit “noisier”. As a DSLR user, the thing that amazes me the most with the X-T1's autofocus is its face detection. Using one of the newer IF lenses like the 23mm with Face detection enabled can be amazing, especially under good lighting conditions! With the 23mm wide open, and when it focuses, its spot on! I may shoot 30-40 shots of a kid playing in a matter of a minute or two, and I may have only 4-5 shots that are out of focus – that’s a great success rate. This doesn’t mean you will get the same results, what it means is that the camera and lens combo ARE capable of such results depending on various factors such as lighting conditions and the photographers experience. With the XF 18-55mm I get faster acquisition, similar accuracy (helped by the larger DOF) and slightly more misses.

Fujifilm X-T1 & XF23mm f/1.4R ISO 400 1/250sec @ f/2.0 Camera to the floor, LCD flipped up and the Face detection initialized! AF traced the face and then locked onto the eyes in the top part of the frame - WOW -try doing that with a Nikon LOL

shooting menu 1

AUTOFOCUS SETTING/FOCUS AREA: 2
There are 5 sizes to select using the rear thumb wheel from largest (size 5) to smallest (size 1). Size 1 is precise focusing and takes slightly longer than size 5 and also increases the chances of hunting. Size 5 is less critical in its judgment, very fast and reduces the chances for hunting. With my limited testing so far, I have decided to set my camera to size 2. Default by the way is size 3 and is usually set if you hit the Focus Assist button instead of turning the thumb wheel. If I see that there is too much delay or hunting, then that means that I will need to increase the size of the Focus Area. In general, I think its safe to assume that size 2 is good for primes or good lighting situations and size 4 preferable for zooms or lower light levels.
NOTE: If Focus Area is unavailable, then maybe you need to deselect Face Detection.
MACRO: Off
RELEASE/FOCUS PRIORITY/AF-S & AF-C: So far I have seen no need to go with Release. I have both set to Focus and I am very happy with my results so far.
INSTANT AF SETTING: AF-S
AF MODE: AREA
FACE DETECTION: OFF. As you can see, I have disabled Face detection. This is because, you can’t have it turned on all the time, since you are not always shooting faces. So I looked at all the available options and possible setups, and the best I have come up with is to have face detection assigned to the FN1 button on the front of the camera.
PRE-AF: OFF
AF ILLUMINATOR: ON

setup menu 2

In “Setup Menu2” under Function Settings I have assigned function buttons Fn3, Fn4, Fn5, Fn6 to Focus Area. This is the most natural way to set up the buttons on the camera in my way of thinking and it most probably should have been set this way from the factory. Now what you end up with is a camera that is fast to select focus point if needed (both in AF and in Manual – with the rear AF-L button) and in a blink of an eye you can press the front Fn button to select Face detection when needed.

CH & CL AF: Continuous AF on the X-T1 is strange. You half press the shutter release and wait for a clear picture in the viewfinder and all you get is blurriness. The good news, is that as soon as you press the shutter and as long as you have a moving subject, all frames are focused!

last words

That about covers my personal settings for the X-T1. Please take note that my choice of settings is based on my style of photography, which is portraiture, storytelling photojournalism, wedding and family snapshots. I mainly use single shot AF, Face detection and JPEG’s straight out of the camera. I also love the RAW conversion feature found in the X-T1. So that’s it for now, if you have any questions do leave them below!

Fujifilm X-T1 & XF 56mm f/1.2 ISO 200 1/2400sec @ f/1.6 The 56mm in action with a strong back-lit portrait

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130 Comments

connie

23/3/2014 09:41:47 am

I am a newbie to this system. Can you convert raw within the camera?
Thanks for the helpful tips!!

John

23/3/2014 11:26:27 am

Yes, you hit the Play nutton, find the raw you want to convert, press the Menu/OK button and choose from the Playback Menu the second option which is Raw Conversion. It also provides a lot of extra choices including plus or minus to exposure, film simulation, change WB, cropping etc. Of course the best way to do conversions is on a computer, but we Adobe users are still waiting for Lightroom to update its converter. In the mean time, PhotoNinja is doing the best conversions out there, though i am not very fond of the interfce

Roarcrusade

7/12/2014 08:39:23 pm

There is a easier way!!! Go to File you wanna convert then press the Q button

Blaine

28/3/2014 09:02:14 pm

Great article! Having just received my X-T1 I appreciate your explanation of the menu items and your insights into the AF system. Can you explain more about the Instant AF setting? What the heck does this setting actually do? And yes, I am a former DSLR user. :)

28/3/2014 09:55:06 pm

From my understanding so far, with it set to ON, your X-T1 will constantly try to keep focus even when the camera is hanging from your neck so when you decide to bring it to your face to compose it will theoretical already be in focus. For now and until i find out otherwise, its a waste of battery power.

Cheers
John

Angus

31/3/2014 05:22:18 am

Hi John and Blaine,
I think Blaine is asking Instant AF instead of Pre-AF. what John has explained is Pre-AF setting.
Turn on Instant AF is actually help you quickly "Auto" focus in manual focus mode, when you press AF-L button. This is useful when you suddenly need to capture something instantly in manual focus mode. ;) correct me if I'm wrong, John.

deoxygen@gmail.com

31/3/2014 05:34:15 am

Yes you're right, I stand corrected, tnx!

31/3/2014 08:35:56 pm

Thanks, that makes perfect sense. I was getting confused about how an AF function had anything to do with manual focus. So I guess you could quickly hit the AF-L button to put you in the focus "neighborhood" and then focus manually for precision.

john

30/3/2014 03:47:28 pm

Dave, thanks for the messages ;-) If you ever have any other questions regarding your X-T1, don't hesitate to ask

Cheers
John

David

30/3/2014 09:08:24 pm

John,
Your setup instructions were a tremendous help to me. Can you explain a bit what your import and post processing into Lr5 is?

Do you have a specific 'preset' import action in place?

For some reason my XT-1 files do not look right in Lr5?

I am experienced using Lr from ver 1.0 and coming from a CANON 5D Mk II and a Fugi X100S.
Thank you!

31/3/2014 01:55:49 am

Unfortunately, Adobe Lightroom still doesn't support XT1 RAF files. What I'm doing for the moment is copying all my files across to my HDD from the SD card. I then use Adobe DNG Converter 8.4 beta (http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/cameraraw8-4.html) to convert the RAF to DNG in the same folder. I then use lightroom to import from there and work as usual in Lightroom. The next version of Lightroom should (from what I hear) give excellent support for RAF files. Im hopping this is true, we just have to wait and see.

If you cant wait for Lightroom, the best converter on the market so far is PhotoNinka. I've tried it, it does wonderful conversions, but I hate the interface. Personally I 'll wait for Lightroom.
Cheers
John

31/3/2014 01:57:46 am

EDIT: Sorry, Photo Ninja (http://www.picturecode.com/index.php)

Mark Soon Photography link

1/4/2014 04:04:32 am

Hey John,

First of all, I love the sample photos you've posted here with this guide. They're brilliant! I've got a couple of questions for you, regarding things that have been plaguing me since I purchased the X-T1. So here we go:

1. Is it actually possible to shoot focused shots using the AF-C mode and Single shot? The only time I correct focus is when I'm in Ch mode. I can't do that all the time because I shoot with speedlights in a lot of cases. It tends to miss and hunt in and out in AF-C + S mode.

2. You mentioned going into Focus priority with AF-S mode as well. Do you find that the delay is much too long at times, to capture the moment? Just asking for a "feeling" here as I know this will be lens dependant.

Thanks for your time John!

1/4/2014 06:04:24 pm

Hi Mark and glad you liked the photos.

To answer both your questions I need to wright a complete article which I plan on doing sometime in the near future when i gain enough experience with the system.

For the time being, all i can pass on is that unlike my Nikon style of shooting (http://www.johncaz.net/2/post/2014/03/a-refined-focusing-technique-for-nikon-cameras.html) with Continuous AF and plenty of bursts of 3-5 frames even for portraits I'm now using the Fuji in a totaly different manner. I'm more into single shot AF and single shot mode or sometimes I might go for single shot AF and a burst at 8fps for pretty much static subjects.

I haven't and don't plan to do action except for testing purposes for the upcoming article, but that will have to wait until I get my hands on a 55-200mm or other long lens.

For slower action of people using the 18-55mm zoom, I have tried Continuous AF and CH speed mode with great success. This is all I can share at the moment, and its still too early for me to come to any solid conclusions about the system yet.

Plus I must point out that unlike other Fuji users who have a more "sour" experience with the previous generation of cameras and some of the older lenses, I entered the Fuji family using what is currently the cream of the crop. The X-T1 is the fastest camera Fuji makes and so too are the lenses I am using, the 23mm, the 56mm and the 18-55mm.

My "short" experience so far is excellent and I love the accuracy of the AF. I mean, with DSLR's i had to take a burst of 3-4 shots to be able to get one that was "very" clear! With the Fuji it makes no difference, your first and only shot is focused and crisp sharp!

Hope this helps,

Cheers
John

Michael Thornton

25/5/2014 11:01:47 am

Hi,
Thanks for a great article. I normally shoot with Nikon D800 but fancy this Fuji XT.
A question if I may.
If I use CH with single point AFS and choose a focus point outside the nine central phase detect points, for example lined up on a persons eye, will the focus be fast and accurate? If I shoot a burst on CH will the focus be locked as per the first frame or will it refocus as it shoots the burst?

Regards
Michael

25/5/2014 12:42:04 pm

To Michael Thornton,

Its the same as a DSLR. If you focus in single shot AF and shoot in CH, it uses the first frame as its focus point. Note though, that when using the 56mm portrait lens wide open, its easy to move the focus plane during the shot sequence

Albert

1/4/2014 07:00:17 pm

Do you mind let me know how to set Fn 3 - 6 to different focus area?

1/4/2014 07:34:39 pm

You don't. Where you last left your AF point is where you will find it again. The up, down , left and right pad buttons are just for the initial direction you want to take. Also note that once at the end of the screen you continue on the opposite side. Its very straightforward and easy once you have used it a few times.

Hope this helps
John

1/4/2014 10:06:00 pm

Oh I thought in your article when you said Fn3 - focus area, you mean I can pre set the button to a focus area so when I press Fn3 my focus area will be customized already and no need to move arrow up down left or right?

Mike F

5/4/2014 12:43:23 pm

Hi John.

Great article! Very helpful. Just curious why you would want to set all 4 buttons to Focus Area as you have described. Wouldn't having just one button assigned do the same job?

Thanks.

5/4/2014 01:55:54 pm

Hi Mike, If you can do with just one button, feel free to do so - especially if you do need the other 3 for other available options. Personally i don't have a need for any of the other options so prefer the use of all 4 buttons. This way i can move in the direction needed straightaway. With only 1 button (e.g: left) if i need to go in another direction i have to first go in the selected direction (e.g: in this case left) and then change buttons again to move in another direction.

Cheers
John

5/4/2014 02:29:14 pm

Got it now, thanks everyone.

7/4/2014 11:18:41 am

Thanks again, John. Makes sense. Just had the X-T1 for a couple of days. I'll try out different configurations - see what works for me. Up to now I've always done the point, half-press & recompose thing. Always a learning curve with a new camera. Your article really helps.

Mike

Mike

Stefan

16/4/2014 09:25:51 am

Hi John,

First off thanks for the great article! I am wondering what your experience is with Face-Detection when taking photos which contain more then one person? Lets say if you want to capture 3-4 people in one shot with them all being in focus. Would you switch face detection off and use a smaller aperture ?

16/4/2014 11:11:35 am

Hi Stefan, truth be said I have not as yet done a group shot. But I am certain that i would use whatever focus I have set previous to the group shot.

My only concern would be that my DOF is enough to cover the whole group. In most cases though, this should not be a problem since a wide angle would be at work and most group shots are done at a safe distance (whole body in frame). The only time that DOF may be a problem is with a standard or tele lens such as the 35mm (50mm full frame) or 56mm (85mm FF) is used to shoot 2 or 3 people at close distances (head & shoulders).

Hope this helps
John

Lineson

12/5/2014 12:30:41 pm

Erratic focussing with 18*55 fujinon

12/5/2014 09:58:43 pm

Small apertures and strong back light will confuse AF. Best to use wide apertures and limit AF sensor to shaded subject. As with any system, you need to learn it's shortcomings.

lineson

13/5/2014 04:00:23 am

I had the XE1 with the same lens , even if it was consider slower , i am not totally agreee except for mobile object ; i never had a problem after the firmware update 2.00 ,
I face with the XT1 , exactly the same erratic focus with the XE1 prior the update of firmware ,
May be it's a lens problem

13/5/2014 06:03:23 am

Hi Lineson, if the erratic focusing you are describing is when in Continuous AF and CH mode, then this is unfortunately how it is. If you read my post here: http://goo.gl/S8Z8Bb you will better understand AF with the XT1

Hope this helps
John Caz

13/5/2014 06:18:28 am

Hi John ;

Definitly not , is when i use AFS and S mode , from time to time is excellent et some time erratic ! from 25 shots i had 5 focussed , 5 acceptable et the rest not focuused or below average !
I am going to try and other similar lens to be sure
is it normal to ear the engine of the lens running all the time without prefocus on and AFS and S mode
Thanks for your comment

Phill

31/5/2015 03:37:20 am

Hello
Did you rrsolve the lens running all the time issue? I am hearing the same constantly and my firmware is 3.11.
Thanks

13/5/2014 06:31:58 am

John ;

I think i found the issue , the firmware lens has been updated to 3.11 its faster in term of response but erratic from time to time ,
so wait and see !

13/5/2014 08:37:27 am

John ;

i have just tried with the XE1 and the same lens , deliver very sharped and focussed picture with high dynamic , AF is working pretty fast the one i used is on 1.03 firmware !!! even in low light

my XT1 sample is not acurate at all !!!!!!!

13/5/2014 10:32:03 am

Sorry to hear. Sound s like you have a faulty unit. The XT1 is a great camera, make sure you get an exchange or get the one have repaired under warranty.
John

Mal

21/5/2014 12:33:56 pm

Thank you for your info i was in near meltdown with my X-T1 having just ditched my Nikon gear. My night photos with the 56mm are now a outstanding compared to (N-n) mediocre. You have rightly stated the new lenses are well supported and work. The firmware update system is amazing. Love your street style. The only problem i foresee is the flash system?

25/5/2014 11:16:06 am

Hi John,
Do you know of a way that after taking a shot, you can see an image preview in the EVF which shows a histogram and blinkies without actuating another button?

Regards
Michael

25/5/2014 12:50:09 pm

Michael, i have set mine to see the histogram using the "Detail Information" option when in Preview mode. What you see on the LCD will show in the EVF as well.

Mathieu link

20/12/2015 08:51:37 pm

Hi John
This is hidden in the first wrench menu under Screen Set-Up, Image display.

Susann

30/5/2014 09:27:13 pm

Hello,

Brand new Fuji XT1 and I am finding the colors wayyy oversaturated, the greens wayyy to green (fake looking) and the grey on my house is a pinky purple tone to it not a true grey. Alaso most of the pictures are very dark. I had an old Fuji S9100 and took the same shots with it and the colors are perfect!!. I just don't understand, there is a drastic difference in both quality and price but seriously the S9100 has way better color. Also Have the Nikon D7000. Got the Fuji XT1 for size/weight and quality blows 7000 out of the water BUT cannot keep it if this is what you get for color and darknes. Any comments would be most helpful and appreciated.

Michel link

8/6/2014 09:14:44 am

This post made my day, John...
I'm a Nikon switcher so there's a bit of a learning curve and you made it easier on me... on all of us I think :-)

Thank you so much !

Noel Del Pilar link

13/6/2014 12:03:13 am

Thank you for this information. I am going to try your settings. I receive my Fuji XT-1 last week. My goal is to do weddings with 60% Fuji and 40% Canon. Less weight!

Ali

28/6/2014 09:56:30 pm

John I just want to tank you for your article and please let us know when your long article come out, thanks again!

Frankie

29/6/2014 08:22:46 am

Hi,

I didn't understand the way you shoot for tracking a child with face detection ON + CH + AF-C.

Face detection is automatically OFF if I'm on CH + AF-C.

How can I track subject like you do with your child ?

Are you in AF-S + CH + Face detection ON ?

1/7/2014 05:33:47 am

Hi Frankie, i dont use face detection with Continuous AF or CH. I am in single shot and when tracking is needed i use normal AF as pointed out in my two blog posts.

John

1/7/2014 06:21:43 am

Oh ok, I understood that you used the Face detection to track people on burst mode.

So you're just on AF-C + CH and put the subject on the middle of the frame to track with the 9 points if I've understood everything ! :)

1/7/2014 10:08:12 am

Frankie, you can use burst (CL or CH) with face detection, but i find it unnecessary since single shot gives me what i want - it just feels more productive. You have options, try them and find what suites you best.

Hope this helps
John

rob link

25/7/2014 09:31:16 am

Great post.
But here's a puzzler, for me at least.
How to get a full preview when using the sync socket for remote flash?
I keep having to stop down to black, which isn't sensible.
What am I doing wrong?

Bill

26/7/2014 06:39:34 pm

Hi John -
Great review on Fuji XT-1. It was basis for my selling NEX7 + 4 lenses, and purchasing XT-1 with 18-55, 35, and 55-200. So much appreciated your guide to setting up. For this 76 yr old amateur, pulling camera outta the bag, and quickly being able to see and adjust major settings on dials makes it so much more enjoyable. Thanks again, and also to all those that contributed with comments.

Shaun

30/7/2014 06:05:57 pm

Lovely, John: practical, hands-on..and I so like your mono work!
I've used Canon 1DsMk2 till literally last week, since when I took a deep breath and am now using the XT-1 exclusively. Like you, I never once thought I'd output anything other than RAW, yet I find myself challenged to use RAWs as "backup" and rely on jpegs straight from the front end. I find the AF-L for focus in "manual body" mode whilst in aperture priority, a dream, and so accurate. My F1 button is set to red-filtered mono...and honestly as 21mm is my "home" length, the 14mm I find simply arresting.
Thank you John for your time writing your post and to all contributors.

2/8/2014 01:18:33 pm

Hi John,
Firstly thanks for a great article on the Fuji XT, it was really helpfull, much appreciated.
A question if I may, I want to use Cactus V6 radio triggers to fire remote flashguns only, there will not be a flash in the camera hotshoe.
In the Fuji XT menu should I set Forced Flash or Commander mode?

Regards and Thanks
Michael

John Caz

6/8/2014 09:23:37 am

I don't think it should matter, since the menu refers to the use of the flash that will be mounted on the hotshoe. Your trigger only sends the fire signal. Hope this helps
john

Chris

12/8/2014 03:30:52 pm

Hi John,

Thanks for this article, I recently picked up a X-t1 and this helped me a lot in my initial set up. Question, in other articles you mentioned the use of ND filters, what filters are you using?

14/8/2014 01:51:08 am

Hi Chris, in my bag I currently have 2 77mm filters (a B&W 10 stop and a Hoya 4 stop ND) plus a hard grad 3-stop Lee which i use by hand and a 77mm polarizer. For the first two and polarizer I have acquired reduction rings. These are the only filters i use and are relics from my DSLR days!

Rob link

14/8/2014 03:53:32 pm

Why is it that so few cameras have a ND filter? Especially when they all go to town with a range of exotic effects that, personally, I don't need at all.
The one on my old G10 was invaluable.

14/8/2014 05:09:03 am

14/8/2014 05:09:25 am

14/8/2014 03:52:45 pm

Peter Bendheim link

21/8/2014 05:47:44 am

Thank you for taking the time to post all these settings. It has been a huge help in getting my Fuji to perform really well after coming from 20 years plus of Nikon. Really, it is much appreciated!! Loving this camera.

Henry mayuyo link

26/8/2014 03:23:14 am

Is anybody here can give me idea how the accesory flash of fuji Xt1 works??i dont have idea how it works?

30/8/2014 03:46:27 pm

Just place the flash on the hotshoe in the "down" position - when you take a portrait or other closeup photo that you think needs some fill light, then shoot again with the flash in the up position. Its that simple! Im sure you will find it handy!

Cheers
John

Mark link

27/8/2014 10:35:15 am

Thanks for the setup info on the XT. The setting to to make the EVF and LCD to WYSIWYG was key for me. I like your photography style and the info on your blog, glad i found it. I'm sure I'll learn a lot from the information here.

Thanks,

Mark

Henry

2/9/2014 03:37:03 pm

John,i already did that my flash,,but still it did'nt fire at all..do you have any idea if i need to set ON or OFF in the menu button??or maybe there's something wrong with my flash??thanks in advance :)

4/9/2014 10:42:35 am

Hi Henry, make sure in the Menu under FLASH MODE its on "AUTO" and not "Suppressed". Plus, also note that the flash will not light up when there is plenty of light available. For fill-in purposes you may need to force the flash by selecting the "Forced Flash" option.
John

Maria Sacadura

9/9/2014 04:07:38 pm

Hello John!
Thanks for a magnific article! How can I select "contrast" and "hue" in the different settings. Do you only have the "base"setting.Have you tried with the different films and different situations (like night or golden hours?)
Thank you for your help
Maria

10/9/2014 02:41:59 am

Hi Maria, in the Shooting menu i select my "base" setting from the "Film Simulation" option and then if needed i will adjust "Shadow tone" and "Highlight tone". I have never used the "Color" option which is a Hue adjuster. Hope this helps
John

Antonio

3/10/2014 10:09:41 am

Hi! I hope you can help me. i don't undesrtand what happens when i switch in manual focus: when i half press the shutter button the subject automatically is brought into focus. How can i avoid this feature so that i can really focus manually?
I'm sorry form my english..i hope you can understand. Thanks!

7/10/2014 03:16:07 am

Hi Antonio,

in the "Setup menu" under "Screen setup" got to "Focus check" and select Off. Another option is to use the "Focus Assist" button on the back of the camera to switch between zoomed and non-zoomed preview.

Hope this helps
John

Jay

3/10/2014 02:57:08 pm

As a result of my fondness for my Fuji X100s, I just sold my DX Nikon system and picked up an XT-1 to replace it. I am shooting in aperture priority mode with the 18-55 lens and I leave both ISO and shutter speed on auto. The viewfinder displays my chosen aperture but it does not show either the shutter speed or the ISO selected by the camera. Have I failed to set up something properly? Thanks.

7/10/2014 03:18:00 am

Hi Jay, your shooting details are shown when you half press the shutter

John

stephen

13/10/2014 09:03:31 am

Thanks very much for the great setup instructions. I just recently purchased the X-T1 18-135mm kit and I used your instructions to start to understand the AF options. I have a few questions that I was hoping you could help with.

It sounds like for any sort of action, you stick with AF-C/CH and leave the focus point and subject in the center of the frame, is that correct? Also, when I'm panning or even zooming on an action shot, should I have OIS disabled?

With face detection on in CH mode, does the camera refocus between each shot? Also, how have you found face detection to work with your subject outside of the center of the frame?

Thanks very much for writing your articles, they're very helpful!

-Stephen

13/10/2014 02:25:17 pm

Hi Stephen,
I personally use AF-C & CH with Focus Release for people action when using the 18-55 or 56mm. Center focus is prefered. I dont as yet own the 55-200 so i have no experience as yet with the longer tele. Plus i don't do much action apart from some early testing with moving cars. I have OIS disabled for the most part of my photography except when i see that my results require extra help in stabilization. You will get sharper / better results for the most part unless you are very "sloppy" at hand holding your camera. (Plus i think - i may be wrong - that one of the many reasons we get funny smeared greens may be from the OIS.)

As for face detection, its a no go with AF-C.

Hope this helps

John

Sharene

15/10/2014 06:00:31 am

On the Q Menu what are some examples of your Custom Setting? Thanks!

15/10/2014 03:47:14 pm

Hi Sharene, since setting up my camera i have found that i haven't used the Q-menu at all. I am currently writing up my 2nd version of this article but I'm waiting for the December firmware update to finish it off and post it online.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help

John

Kumaran link

21/10/2014 11:43:09 pm

Hey! That's a beautiful article! :) thank u. I'm looking to buy a second body and i'm so highly confused not know which one to go for. I've got the D800 - 50mm 1.4 - 105mm 2.8 - 14-24mm 2.8 - 24-70mm 2.8 - and the flash systems for nikon. I shoot weddings in India. Now i'm looking to buy the XT-1 with the 56mm 1.2 (or) 23mm 1.4 or Sony's A99 with Sigma 35mm 1.4. I know both are different leagues.. but i want to know which one will be the next best thing from Nikon D800. Initially I thought about purchasing the D810 also.. but then i wanted to review these two beautiful cameras also.. and now the reason i'm leaning more towards these 2 camera is because of the WYSIWYG "EVF" it saves a crazy amount of time in certain situations. It'll be great if u could give me your advice on which way to go. Thanks :)

22/10/2014 03:27:22 am

Sorry Kumaran, but this is a decision you need to make yourself. All i can pass on is a reminder that flash is a manual affair with Fuji and that Fuji X series cameras were designed primarily for available light photography. I myself love the X-T1 for weddings but it may be a different cup of tea for you. Please try and rent or borrow a kit from someone to use for 3-4 days. Then you will be in a position to judge for yourself.

John

Ronen Zilberman

2/11/2014 03:49:09 pm

Thanxs for the great article ...never understand why folks fail to read and re read their manuals before they google...Laughing out loud...but to my question.
What can you tell me in terms of BKT extension for HDR (Firmware Upgrade?). Have tinkered around with comp dial in conjunction with BKT but ending up with 3 sets of 3 shots in PS or photomattix is not my cup of tea..thnx for your time John(Btw..is your full name Cazablanca?)

2/11/2014 11:26:13 pm

Hi Ronen, I only do 2 sets of 3 shots. I spin the Exp. comp. dial to +3 and then -3. So far this is the only way I know off getting the shots that i require. BTW, Cazablanca is not my full name :-)
Cheers
John

Pia

26/11/2014 02:11:26 am

Hi John,

How can I enable the flash? I already placed the flash on the hot shoe but it didn't work. The flash is on auto mode. How can I change the mode to forced flash? Appreciate your feedback. Thanks!

26/11/2014 03:07:43 am

Hi Pia, for starters check in the menu that you are not in silent mode which disables the flash.

Veronica Dannemann

30/11/2014 07:32:51 am

Hi John, I have previously asked you about the photometer in the XT1. i am not an experienced photographer and I have been taught in a photography class to shoot all photos in manual mode by measuring the light with a white paper and looking at the histogram. I understand the method in theory and I know how important it is to evaluate light in the scene, but I find this method quiet difficult for me in changing and quick situations. When I asked about the photometer in theses classes, I was told not to trust it, that's why I would like to know how does it work in the XT1. I am traveling to India and I cannot think of myself having to measure exposure with a white paper and setting White Balance, ISO, Speed, Aperture, for each photo in changing situations. I live in Argentina and no one knows still knows the XT1. Thank you

30/11/2014 10:35:12 am

Hi Veronica,

the X-T1 is a digital mirrorless which is a little different than a DSLR. Leave your classroom teachings for school and when in India enjoy your trip and let the camera fo most of the work.

Start off by placing the aperture ring to A and the shutter dial to A as well. Now you are basically in Auto mode. You may want to leave the ISO dial on Auto as well. With those set you can now take pictures without any hassle.

If you want to explore your camera more, just use the aperture ring to select your preferred aperture - for instance if you want a shallow DOF (depth of field) for a portrait use a large aperture (small number eg f/1.4) or large DOF for a landscape use a small aperture (large number eg f/8). Otherwise put the dial back to A and feel free to shoot knowing that the camera will do everything for you.

Shooting with the X-T1 is very easy since what you see in the viewfinder is exactly what you get (WYSIWYG) meaning that any changes you make is immediately shown in real life on the EVF. With an optical viewfinder such as with an DSLR you had to constantly remind yourself to keep an eye on the exposure bar in the viewfinder. With the X-T1 as long as you have set “Preview Exposure in M mode” to ON, what you see is what you get, WYSIWYG.

With the above out of the way, the exposure meter bar you see in the viewfinder is now of little use (unless you are an experienced photographer) but as I have already mentioned, dont worry about it, just enjoy your trip and concentrate on your subjects and composition. The mighty X-T1 will do all the work.

Cheers
John

Joel Sackett

6/12/2014 10:49:24 pm

I'm having more of a mechanical issue with my XT1. When I move the ISO dial (depressing the release button), the mode selector underneath usually moves with it. Then I have to reset it back to S where I want it. Is there another way to change ISO to avoid this? Like assigning different ISO ratings to C1, C2, etc? Does this need service as there might be some grit in-between the ISO dial and mode selector?

7/12/2014 01:31:21 am

Hi Joel,
Sorry to hear about that, this is surely not the way it was meant to work so my guess is that its mechanical failure. If you just bought your XT1 I highly suggest you go back to your retailer and ask him to give you another copy otherwise you will need to get it fixed under warranty.

John

7/12/2014 04:17:21 am

Thanks John. I will speak with both the retailer and Fuji on Monday and see what they suggest? It's important to me how they handle this as I'm a pro considering a full changeover to Fuji.

9/12/2014 01:37:04 pm

Successful outcome. Fuji was professional on the phone. Suggested talking to dealer first for an exchange which would be easiest. Otherwise, send it in for expedited repair. Dealer exchanged for new unit without hesitation. Looks like I'm moving forward with the changeover from Canon to Fuji.

9/12/2014 02:44:39 pm

Good to hear Joel,

John

Paul Szilard link

14/12/2014 03:08:32 pm

Spot on! My only deviation from your list is to shoot video at 30fps as it gives better IQ. (Lesser of two evils!) :)

ryan abribat link

19/12/2014 01:48:50 pm

can you shoot 8fps in raw/jpegfine?

heard anything about the new f2.8 200mm lens? is 16mp enough?

19/12/2014 02:18:59 pm

Yes, 8fps with Jpeg fine and RAW is a go. The new 50-140mm f/2.8 is very good according to all reports and 16MP is plenty for me.

A little warning though, i am assuming from your question that you are interested in fast action photography and in all truthfulness, the X-T1 is not a sports/action photographers camera, though it can handle action (not enough lenese). All of Fuji's cameras are excellent at people photography, events, portraits, reportage, kids playing, pets and studio. When Fuji gives us more tele lenses and maybe an X-T2 then we can assume that Fuji will be able to compete with more action oriented camera systems.

George I.Georgiades

1/1/2015 04:18:05 pm

Very straigtforward and helpful set up proposals.It would be extremely
valuable for all of us out here if you continued sharing with us your
experiense with the X-T1 and maybe in the future write a comprehensive paper to cover more issues.In the meantime I will do my best with this charming instrument. Thank you, George.

1/1/2015 05:11:53 pm

;-)

Rob Jenkins

1/1/2015 04:59:44 pm

Hi John

Love the XT1 web site and of course your photos

I'd just got mu nissin 140 so I would love to hear to guide etc on how to use flash best settings etc especially when using the i40

Thanks

Rob

1/1/2015 05:15:04 pm

A flash article might show up sometime in February but it will be more of a general lighting thing and not a specific i40 user guide. Until then Google what you can.

Cheers
John

2/1/2015 05:00:59 am

Thanks for the speedy feed back on the i40 . one simple question on the XT1 when using the i40 flash do i set the shutter speed to auto or on the X180 setting. i don't know if its me being thick as its not clear in the instructions?? Thanks in advance

2/1/2015 06:55:06 am

Basically, if you leave the flash on TTL you can shoot pretty much in any mode you like and the flash will respond with a balanced fill within its limitations. Since you seem to be new at this, keep your shutter either at A or 1/180sec. On the flash just limit yourself with underexposing the flash as you see fit. I don't think you will come across many problems with TTL. Just a reminder that if you want to be more creative and dabble with manual flash, you will have to adjust "PREVIEW EXP. MANUAL MODE" to OFF

Syd Rogers

17/1/2015 08:40:23 am

Hi john when I go into the Q menu there is no base icon but replaced with film simulation thus making two film simulations, any idea how to get back the base icon? Thank you for such a knowledgable article on the xt1 which I have changed to from a Canon 7d. Thanks in advance
Syd R

17/1/2015 04:58:17 pm

Press the Q button continuously and you will get into the Q-menu edit mode. Press the OK button and toggle down to "SELECT CUSTOM SETTING" , press OK again and then the DISP BACK button to return to normal shooting. Now when you press the Q button to bring up the Q-Menu, it will have the BASE option available.

Cheers
John

Pablo

18/1/2015 07:36:17 pm

Hi John! thanks so much for this information! I love my X-T1 and so far my only "problem" with it (probably something I have not figured out properly yet) is when I am using a flash under low light conditions; some times I am not able to see what I'm shooting through the view finder; some times I see like a little "flash" of what I'm going to shoot that allows me to compose, sometimes I don't; any ideas? Thanks in advance.

18/1/2015 11:49:55 pm

"SCREEN SETUP>PREVIEW EXP. WB IN MANUAL MODE> I like this feature a lot and have it always selected (EXP/WB). The EVF shows an approximation of the final image and its a really nice feature. Beware though, if you are going to shoot with strobes in Manual mode, you may want to set this Off to prevent a dark viewfinder. This is now easily done since you can program a Fn button for this."

Pablo, the info above is from my updated article here http://www.johncaz.net/blog/december-19th-2014

Trigun

19/3/2015 05:26:34 am

That's what I needed! I was cursing like a pirate when I couldn't focus in the dark when using strobes!

Steve

21/1/2015 01:51:25 pm

Hi John, what a great article, i am thinking of upgrading my camera [current xe1] but was thinking of going back to canon or nikon but having seen what can be produced with the xt1 [obviously in the right hands] you have changed my mind. I also now remember why i changed in the first place!! heavy heavy heavy!!!, so hopefully going to find an xt1 soon, cheers . Steve

Anthony Morganti link

30/1/2015 05:32:07 pm

Great review! I was wondering if you could answer a question I have about the AF Button? When you have the camera in Manual Focus Mode and you utilize the AF Button to focus, does it continually focus as long as you're depressing it?

If the AF Button in Manual Focus doesn't behave as I described, what if I put the camera in Continuous Focus mode and use the back button, is the shutter button focus automatically disabled?

I have all of my cameras setup with back button continuous focus and with the shutter button not involved with focus at all. Is there a way I can set this camera up to do that?

I hope that made sense.

Thank you for the great review and your awesome website!

1/2/2015 10:30:21 am

You answer can be found here: AUTOFOCUS SETTING>INSTANT AF SETTING Depending on what you have chosen will affect the rear AF button in manual focus mode.

When I was shooting Nikon, I also used the AF ON technique (http://goo.gl/NFD8VE), but since switching to Fuji, my shooting style has changed. One reason is that continuous AF with Fuji isn't needed like it was with Nikon which required 3-5 shots just to get one in perfect focus.

John

1/2/2015 11:45:04 am

Thanks for the info John. I just ordered it today and should receive it Tuesday -- looking forward to getting my mitts on it.

Mark Goggin link

2/3/2015 03:57:47 am

Hi John, I've recently started having a problem with my X-T1 and just wondered if you have come across this with yours. When I have the camera set to preview the exposure in manual mode it looks perfect in the EVF/LCD but when I take the shot it's hugely over exposed nearly every time. Stopped down to F22/F16 (depending on the lens), it's quite slight but wide open it's totally blown out every time while the display is telling me I'm under exposing the shot at -3. This is not the case on my old X-E1 which I've reverted to now (thankfully I didn't sell it). I sent the X-T1 back to Fuji and they just said they serviced it and it was working as specified. Can you think of something I might have changed in the setup that would inadvertently cause this to happen? I can't use the camera like this.

Thanks for the in depth set-up guide.
Mark

20/4/2015 12:20:27 am

Hi Mark, sorry for the late reply, i have been away. Are you using an electronic or manual lens?

19/3/2015 05:00:00 am

So, I'm trying to shoot a portrait where the background is all black. First you should go put the shutter speed to 1/180, and the diafragm anywhere between F11 - and more to get an all black picture. Then get in a speedlight to illuminate the subject.

Now my problem is: when I'm on 1/180th and let's say F16, my camera can't see anything, so I can't focus on the subject!

If I disable the 'preview in manual mode', should I get a visible dispay again even at F16 or more?

20/4/2015 12:22:40 am

Yes, flash / strobe photography need the Preview in manual mode disabled.

Chris Bergstrom link

21/3/2015 08:40:07 pm

Man, thanks a lot for this write-up! You saved me hours of frustration in the studio. I was shooting with strobes and had a black screen 99% of the time and your tip in the screen setup menu helped me a lot, thank you!

ELLIOT STERN link

17/4/2015 09:59:40 pm

Are there blinkies for highlights. Can't find and can't remember.

Thanks.

20/4/2015 12:14:51 am

Hi Elliot, sorry for the late reply, In Playback mode, hit the DISP BACK button till you get to the Detail Information option.

John

Mika link

14/7/2015 03:23:38 am

Thanks a lot for this. As a former Nikon shooter switching to Fuji I find it difficult to find my marks. Thanks a lot for this that saved me a lot of time.

Steve Samoyedny link

17/7/2015 12:17:27 pm

Have you ever heard of an 18-55 lens being put on an XT1 camera and having something go wrong with the focus assist button?

James L. link

7/8/2015 09:30:20 pm

I'm having trouble disabling face detection. I can't select the "face detection option" to turn it off. Can you advise? Thanks.

john caz

14/9/2015 05:12:11 pm

Hi James, if you have setup your camera according to my suggestions then make sure your front focus selector is on "S" and then hit the fron function button to bring up the on/off selection for face dtection, otherwise dig it up in the menu. AUTOFOCUS SETTING/FACE DETECTION

Cheers
John

PS: Sorry for the late reply

8/8/2015 06:16:02 am

Have you tried the Q button? Face detection is on the bottom row. Select it and turn the dial between AE-L and AF-L to toggle it on and off.

George Whitson

11/8/2015 12:20:25 pm

Love your review. I switched from full frame Nikon to Fuji a year ago and I'm happy I did. I have a problem though. I have spent the year shooting in aperture priority. I just tried to move the shutter speed dial and it won't turn Pushing the lock down only moves the metering knob.

14/9/2015 05:02:15 pm

Hi George, you most probably need to visit a Fuji service center. Sorry to hear and sorry for the late reply

Cheers
John

24/8/2015 01:54:11 am

Hi John,
Excellent article. I concur with your setup, I pretty much had the same settings before I came across your posting. One thing, I'm experimenting with turning the IS mode to shooting only instead of continuous to extend battery life. Any input? Also I'm questioning the electronic lens optimazation, on or off?
John Pease.

14/9/2015 04:27:47 pm

JP, my latest choice with IS is to use it only during the exposure (shooting only). As for the lens optimizations, yes leave this to on for max quality Jpeg's. No affect on RAW.

PS: Sorry for the late reply

Edward Malvo

7/10/2015 12:37:52 pm

Aperture setting disabled, do you know how to activate, it is imposible to activate in my camera.

Thank you

7/10/2015 12:50:22 pm

Hi Edward, not sure what exactly you are referring to but the aperture is either locked by placing the aperture ring in the A (Auto) position or anywhere else for the corresponding f/stop value.

Safiyyah

18/11/2015 04:26:39 am

If you have the camera set on aperture or shutter priority, choose a setting, and then you look through the viewfinder, how do you know your metering/setting is accurate? I don't see anything in there that tells u?? The old film cameras used to have a needle type thing that you would center inside a "C" Thanks!!

12/1/2016 07:58:46 am

Read the section on WYSIWYG

Darlene

12/1/2016 07:01:05 am

How do I get my jpegs to be more than 72 dpi? Everything I take and copy to my computer don't go above this. Is there a setting I'm missing or is my computer downsizing the file automatically?

12/1/2016 07:59:12 am

http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/faq.html#question03

Darlene link

12/1/2016 08:19:11 am

Thank you! Just got hold of a friend who works in the field and apparently all jpegs coming out of most cameras come out as 72 dpi, but a large pixel dimension....so it does not mean unacceptable quality for reproduction.

Odino

26/10/2016 09:00:00 pm

Hi
I ve a friend that activate the MF focus assist 1/2 pressing the shutter button on the XPRO 2 and 100s can I do the same on my XT1?
Thanks

John Philion

1/3/2017 11:23:06 pm

I enjoyed my X T-1 so much that I wore it out. After 20,000 exposures it failed to turn on. I'm hoping the current repair will solve the problem.

Stuart

6/7/2017 01:06:02 am

Hello,

I was wondering if you could help me. I am trying to do long exposures in the T mode and I am unable to get longer than one second. I have the shutter mode in MS and yet still I can't get a longer exposure. Any help would be much appreciated.