Preparing the camera
IMAGE QUALITY SETTING
This setting is pertinent to JPEG files and does not affect RAF files. The 3:2 aspect ratio is the same as traditional 35mm film while 16:9 is the ratio of HD devices such as modern TV’s and smartphones. Selecting an aspect ratio of 1:1, which is square is reminiscent of some old medium format cameras (Hasselblad, Bronica, etc) and is a nice choice for B&W portraits or just to make an artistic statement.
I personally use FINE+RAW while a lot of you may probably prefer just RAW. And believe it or not, I am aware of a couple of pro photographers who shoot exclusively in JPEG. If you do decide to go the JPEG route, please know that you can toggle RAW image quality ON or OFF for a single shot, by assigning RAW to a function button or adding it in the Q menu.
RAW RECORDING>LOSSLESS COMPRESSED
Fuji RAW files are quite huge, so thankfully after years of frustration, we finally get the option for lossless compression in RAF files. For the majority, the choice will be easy, LOSSLESS COMPRESSED, and of course for the those pixel peeping fanatics who still shoot by pushing exposure as far right as possible, you can have all the Fuji goodness in the UNCOMPRESSED RAF.
FILM SIMULATION> ASTIA
These film simulations are a great asset to have, shame too many photographers pass them by. I personally like the Astia for most of my images, though I pick and choose as I go along. This setting is pertinent to JPEG files and does not affect RAF files. Choose a palette according to your subject and creative intent. For a more in depth look at film simulations and tone options, look at my blog post here.
This only affects JPEG’s and Fuji gives you three choices STRONG, WEAK or OFF. At first I ignored this altogether but before wrapping up this article, I thought I give it a try and I must admit I was quite surprised by the results - much better than what I was expecting. Low light, high contrast images at hi ISO even up to ISO 12800 really shine with this filter effect. The added grain helps even out some of the more obvious transitions of highlight areas especially with skin tones plus it also seems to hide to a certain extent some of the color noise blotches again on skin tones. My favorite use for this is low light portraits at high ISO’s and converted to monochrome.
This setting is pertinent to JPEG files and does not affect RAF files. This setting affects the overall contrast or the global contrast of the image and offers 4 options: 100%, 200%, 400% and AUTO. At the 100% setting, contrast remains untouched and is the standard setting. At 200% and 400% settings the camera will lower the contrast and make the scene overall softer. The Auto setting lets the camera decide what setting to use based on the measured contrast at the moment of exposure. Unfortunately, the way this tool works means that it can’t be set at base ISO. So if you want to use Dynamic range 200%, you will first need to set the cameras ISO setting to at least ISO 400 or above, while dynamic range 400%, the ISO needs to be at least ISO 800 or above. Personally, I like to keep this at 100% for most of my photography. When indoors though, where light levels start to drop and contrast starts to get a bit harsh, I may select my AUTO2 ISO setting which I have set especially for such situations (Default ISO=800, MAX. ISO=6400, MIN. SHUTTER=1/100) and then select AUTO for my Dynamic range.
From the following examples we can see that the exposure settings haven't changed, yet for every step, Fuji has managed to pull the highlights accordingly. I have also included similar files with the highlights pulled in Lightroom. Yes, you can get better results from within Lightroom, but Fuji still does a great job if you are a JPEG shooter.
Fuji offers quite a large range of choices, even an underwater setting in case you put your camera in a housing. Options are: AUTO, CUSTOM1/2/3, COLOR TEMP., DAYLIGHT, SHADE, FLURO1/2/3, INCANDESCENT and UNDERWATER. The three Custom options make the WB setting a better tool for the working professional. If you are an amateur I would suggest you leave this on AUTO. If you are using the X-T20 on a working assignment I would recommend you select the right value for the shoot. It’s not important to be correct but rather consistent. This will help later during both the selection process and post. During the selection process it will be easier to judge keepers with a common WB and in post it will be easier to change WB in a uniform manner across multiple images. For paid assignments or when I have ample time I try to pick a suitable Kelvin value otherwise I usually have this on AUTO so my camera is ready to handle any situation as soon as it boots up.
NOTE1: Once a selection is made, you’ll need to press the OK button twice to finalize your selection. This is because after your initial selection , the camera will show you the Fine Tune box for further fine tuning your selection.
NOTE2: Choose CUSTOM to adjust white balance manually. Frame a white sheet of paper, or anything close to white such as a white fridge-door, white wall etc and press the shutter button all the way down to measure white balance (to select the most recent custom value press MENU/OK).
NOTE3: The CUSTOM setting is useful when in difficult low light situations. Once set you can commence shooting knowing that you have a technically correct WB. Of course you can always change the technically correct WB later in post processing if you desire to change the mood of the image.
Adjust the appearance of highlights. This only affects JPEG’s. Choose from seven options between +4 and −2. For a more in depth look at film simulations and tone options, look at my blog post here.
Adjust the appearance of shadows. This only affects JPEG’s. Choose from seven options between +4 and −2. For a more in depth look at film simulations and tone options, look at my blog post here.
Adjust color density. This only affects JPEG’s. from nine options between +4 and −4.
Personally I leave this at 0 since shooting primes wide open gives sharp results. If you primarily shoot with zooms, then maybe set this to +1. This only affects JPEG’s. Choose from nine options between +4 and −4.
NOISE REDUCTION> -4
This setting is pertinent to JPEG files and does not affect RAF files. With the older 16MP sensor, my recommendation was and still is to set this at -2 because the NR algorithm in the camera would always produce ugly blotchy results. Thankfully, the newer 24MP sensor seems to do better at NR so feel free to set this at 0. I wouldn’t use any of the plus values. There is a -4 setting which I’m currently using but please try for yourself and decide.
LONG EXPOSURE NR>OFF
I leave this off and will use it only when I start noticing that its really needed.
NOTE: LONG EXPOSURE NR is achieved by taking a second exposure of the same duration as the first exposure with the mechanical shutter closed so the camera can record the current state of noise off the sensor plus take note of any hot pixels. Then the result is used to extract or to cancel out any noise and hot pixels from the initial exposure.
LENS MODULATION OPTIMIZER>ON
Select ON for better JPEG’s. The camera will correct for diffraction and the slight loss of focus at the periphery of registered lenses.
If you don’t know the answer to this, then set it to sRGB, end of subject. If you insist on wanting to know why has Fuji (and all other manufacturers for that matter) given you the choice, then read on. The Adobe RGB option is for those photographers who want the most out of their files. These photographers all shoot RAW. Fuji’s RAW file is just raw data that can be put into a restricted color space later when exporting from your favorite RAW converter. These photographers usually have everything calibrated from start to finish in a very wide space such as Pro Photo RGB or Adobe RGB. But as most of you already know, RAW files don't need tagging, and JPEG's are sRGB, so why have the option for Adobe RGB? Because some people insist on shooting JPEG’s in Adobe RGB, how dumb! Also note that your choice of color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) will affect the way your images are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF. Don’t think so, try it! I leave this to sRGB.
As your camera ages (in some cases even a few days old, sigh) some pixels may just burn out, so pixel mapping helps to inform the onboard processor which of those need to be mapped out so the camera can then build the empty pixel spaces using chrominance and luminance information from surrounding pixels.
SELECT CUSTOM SETTING
Recall settings saved with EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING. Settings can be recalled from any of the seven custom settings banks. Shame you cant name them.
EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING
Save up to 7 sets of custom camera settings for commonly-encountered situations. Adjust the following as desired: ISO, DYNAMIC RANGE, FILM SIMULATION, GRAIN EFFECT, WHITE BALANCE, HIGHLIGHT TONE, SHADOW TONE, COLOR, SHARPNESS and NOISE REDUCTION.
There are 5 sizes to select using the rear thumb wheel from largest (size 5) to smallest (size 1), with 3 being the default. From my experience so far, I find size 2 great for my everyday shooting style (using primes wide open) offering tremendous precision. If however you are finding that AF seems slow, especially with the slower zooms, then try setting the AF box to 3 or even 4. Size 5 is less critical in its judgment, very fast and reduces the chances for hunting. You will lose some precision but will gain a lot of speed.
NOTE: If FOCUS AREA is unavailable, check whether you are currently in FACE DETECTION mode.
AF MODE>SINGLE POINT
Three options with SINGLE POINT being my personal choice for nearly everything.
SINGLE POINT:The camera focuses on the subject in the selected focus point - pretty simple and effective.
ZONE: The camera focuses on the subject in the selected focus zone. Focus zones include multiple focus points, making it easier to focus on subjects that are in motion.
WIDE/TRACKING: In Continuous AF the camera tracks the subject while the shutter is pressed halfway while in Single AF the camera will choose to focus on high-contrast subjects; the areas in focus are shown in the display.
AF-C CUSTOM SETTINGS
I leave this as is with SET 1 as the standard choice. When the time comes and my needs warrant it, I may choose one of the other settings.
SET 1 STANDARD SETTING FOR MULTI-PURPOSE: A standard tracking option that works well with the typical range of moving subjects.
SET 2 IGNORE OBSTACLES & CONTINUE TO TRACK SUBJECT: The focus system attempts to track the chosen subject. Choose with subjects that are hard to keep in the focus area or if other objects are likely to enter the focus area with the subject.
SET 3 FOR ACCELERATING/DECELERATING SUBJECT: The focus system attempts to compensate for subject acceleration or deceleration. Choose for subjects prone to rapid changes in velocity.
SET 4 FOR SUDDENLY APPEARING SUBJECT: The focus system attempts to focus quickly on subjects entering the focus area. Choose for subjects that appear abruptly or when rapidly switching subjects.
SET 5 FOR ERRATICALLY MOVING & ACCEL./DECEL. SUBJECT: Choose for hard-to-track subjects prone not only to sudden changes in velocity but also to large movements front to back and left to right.
AF POINT DISPLAY>OFF
Choose whether individual focus frames are displayed when ZONE or WIDE/TRACKING is selected for AF/MF SETTING > AF MODE. Choices are ON or OFF
NUMBER OF THE FOCUS POINTS>91 POINTS
Choose the number of focus points available for focus-point selection in manual focus mode or when SINGLE POINT is selected for AF MODE. Choices are 91 POINTS or 325 POINTS. For nearly everything I shoot, I leave this on 91 points mostly because it seems faster and more convenient. If you are on a tripod and working at a slower pace, then maybe 325 points may seem a better choice.
This setting I am definitely leaving switched off. When set to ON, what it does is constantly focus as long as the camera is switched on. This is a feature that maybe a brute street photographer would like where he would have his subject already in focus by the time he lifts the camera to his eye! I don't like hearing and feeling the camera constantly working plus I would rather conserve the battery power.
I used to shoot a lot of wildlife in the past with my Nikons. So out of habit, I always had this option set to off since I didn’t like spooking my subjects. Now with my Fuji’s I tried leaving this on for a while but found that it was a bit distracting both for me and my subject. Plus the range is pretty useless anyway, so there is no point really.
FACE/EYE DETECTION SETTING>FACE ON/EYE AUTO
I have been successfully using “Face Detection” ever since the X-T1 first came out. Back then, when the light started to get really low or the subject was less defined, I would switch face detection off and manually select my AF point. With the X-T20, face detection switches from spot to FD automatically. Overall it has improved big time both in speed and low light performance when compared to the X-T1. Also worthy of note is that “Face Detection” sets both focus and exposure based on the human face it detects. When a face is detected, it will be indicated by a green border. If there is more than one face in the frame, the camera will select the face closest to the center; other faces are indicated by white borders. It really is a great asset for portrait and people photographers. I have this option set to FACE ON/EYE AUTO and also have it assigned to the front Fn1 button for quick and easy access for those times when light gets low or there no faces to detect. Choose from the following options:
FACE ON/EYE OFF: Intelligent Face Detection only.
FACE ON/EYE AUTO: The camera automatically chooses which eye to focus on when a face is detected.
FACE ON/RIGHT EYE PRIORITY: The camera focuses on the right eye (left to you) of subjects detected using Intelligent Face Detection.
FACE ON/LEFT EYE PRIORITY: The camera focuses on the left eye (right to you) of subjects detected using Intelligent Face Detection
FACE OFF/EYE OFF: Intelligent Face Detection and eye priority off.
If you select this option to YES you will get manual focus override while in AF mode. You half press the shutter to autofocus on your subject and then if you desire so, you can fine tune the focus with the manual focus ring while still having the shutter half depressed. This may be nice for those who are experiencing AF issues, otherwise leave it OFF. If you are thinking we already had this, you are not that wrong since the AF-L button in Manual focus mode gives us instant AF when needed. But there is a major difference you need to be aware off. In Manual Focus mode the scene is viewed with the aperture wide-open making FOCUS PEAKING real easy. Instead in AF+MF mode, the scene viewed through the EVF is shown with the selected working aperture engaged which means you will be manually trying to pin point your focus with a larger DOF – not easy but maybe a great option for landscapers who would like to evaluate DOF.
MF ASSIST>PEAK>FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT>RED(HIGH)
Fuji cameras are an excellent tool for using any kind of lens manually. There are 3 options for how the MF ASSIST option can help. Out of the 3 options the one I like best is FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT. The STANDARD option is very basic and DSLR like and the DIGITAL SPLIT IMAGE is not that easy to use since the split is a bit hard to distinguish unless framing a flat surface - maybe useful for architectural photographers. The FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT option on the other hand is great for anyone wanting to nail focus quickly and with a great deal of precision. I personally select the RED(HIGH) option.
With this option set to ON when in manual focus mode then as soon as you move the focusing ring on a Fujinon XF compatible lens, the view in the EVF/LCD will be magnified which will make it easier to judge and nail focus. At first I had this set to ON, but I have since changed my mind. I use a lot of manual lenses and found it irritating every-time I went to focus manually, the view didn't magnify as expected. After remembering that this wasn't a Fujinon lens, I had to remember to press the Focus Assist button. So now in order to use the same technique for both type of lenses when manual focusing, I leave this to OFF.
INTERLOCK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA>ON
If you are a fan of Spot metering, then leave this set to ON. This way, the spot metering sensor will tag along with the AF area position so whatever you focus on is also your spot metering sample!
INSTANT AF SETTING>AF-S
When using Fujinon lenses in Manual focus mode, you can hit the AF-L button to initiate focus and speed up the whole focusing process by placing the lens in the right zone of focus instantly so you can spend more time on fine tuning. You can select between AF-S or AF-C. If you are a street photographer who prefers Manual focusing you may select AF-C in anticipation for an action shot. I don’t find much use for this since I’m happy with the AF performance of Fuji lenses but I think most people may just leave this on its default setting of AF-S.
DEPTH-OF-FIELD SCALE> FILM FORMAT BASIS
Choose FILM FORMAT BASIS to help you make practical assessments of depth of field for pictures that will be viewed as prints and the like, PIXEL BASIS to help you assess depth of field for pictures that will be viewed at high resolutions on computers or other electronic displays. In other words, if you want real world DOF choose FILM FORMAT BASIS and if you are a pixel peeper then choose PIXEL BASIS so you’ll be forced to use smaller apertures.
Like most cameras I have used in the past, you get two options for both modes of focusing, Release and Focus. When I was using film (LOL some of you may not have been born) I used to select Release because my faith in the tracking of the AF motor was not there and I relied on high frame rates for a chance that one frame may be a keeper. Over the years, my Nikon cameras got better and at some point I started using the Focus option with some level of success. Since switching to Fuji I was hesitant to use Focus for both settings, but my testing has proven otherwise, the AF overall is very precise and I can rely on the FOCUS option blindingly.
TOUCH SCREEN MODE>OFF
At first I was annoyed by the touch screen and had it disabled, but after a couple of days my relationship started to change for the better. Its still early days, but for the time being, i have my touchscreen set to OFF.
TOUCH SHOOTING: Tap your subject in the display to focus and release the shutter. In burst mode, pictures will be taken while you keep your finger on the display.
AF: Tap to select a focus point. In AF‑S mode, focus will lock, while in AF‑C mode, the camera will continually adjust focus in response to changes in the distance to the subject. Focus lock and continuous focus can be ended by tapping the AF OFF icon.
AREA: Tap to select a point for focus. Basically what this does is set your choice of AF point just like you would with the 4-way pad on the X-T1 or the joystick on the X-T2. So before you raise the camera, you tap to select where your AF point should be in the frame.
TOUCH SHOOTING: Tap your subject in the display to focus and start recording. In AF-C mode, the camera will continually adjust focus; to refocus in AF-S mode or to focus on a new subject in AF-C mode, tap the subject in the monitor. To end recording, press the shutter button.
AF: Tap your subject in the display to focus and press the shutter button to start or end recording. In AF-C mode, the camera will continually adjust focus in response to changes in the distance to the subject; to refocus in AF-S mode or to focus on a new subject in AF-C mode, tap the subject in the monitor.
AREA:Tap to select a focus point and press the shutter button to start or end recording. In AF‑C mode, the camera will continually adjust focus in response to changes in the distance to the subject. In AF‑S mode, you can move the focus point by tapping the display, but can only refocus using the control to which AF-ON has been assigned.
When the Auto mode selector lever is rotated to AUTO and the Mode dial is rotated to S then you can select SCENE modes by rotating the front command dial. Options include the following: ADVANCED SR AUTO (automatically optimizes settings to suit the scene), PORTRAIT, PORTRAIT ENHANCER (Processes portraits to give the subject a smooth, natural-looking complexion), LANDSCAPE, SPORT, NIGHT, NIGHT (TRIPOD), FIREWORKS, SUNSET, SNOW, BEACH, UNDERWATER, PARTY, FLOWER and TEXT.
This setting controls what feature you will be bracketing when BKT1 is selected with the Drive mode selector. Select from 5 options AE, ISO, Film sim, Dynamic range, and WB. I can’t see the reason not to just leave this set to AE BKT. Under “BKT SELECT” set all options to a full stop (+/-1stop) and at the “FILM SIM BKT” select you 3 favorite film sims or leave as is. If you want to know how to get a 9 step bracket for HDR read this older X-T1 based blog post here.
DRIVE SETTING>BKT2 SETTING>BKT SELECT>FILM SIMULATION BKT
This setting controls what feature you will be bracketing when BKT2 is selected with the Drive mode selector. My choice is film sims
NOTE: When bracketing either ISO, Film simulation, Dynamic range, or WB, then RAW file recording will be turned off which means all you get are JPEG's. The same happens when an advance filter is selected. There is talk that a future firmware release will change this.
DRIVE SETTING>CH HIGH SPEED BURST>8.0fps
Select the frame rate used when the drive dial is rotated to CH. Choices are 14, 11, or 8 fps. Note that 14fps and 11fps are available only with the electronic shutter.
NOTE: Higher than 8fps is available with electronic shutter enabled only.
DRIVE SETTING>CL LOW SPEED BURST>4.0fps
Select the frame rate used when the drive dial is rotated to CL. Choices are 5, 4, or 3 fps.
DRIVE SETTING>Adv. FILTER 1 SELECT>PARTIAL COLOR (RED)
Choose the filter used when the drive dial is rotated to Adv.1
DRIVE SETTING>Adv. FILTER 2 SELECT>DYNAMIC TONE
Choose the filter used when the drive dial is rotated to Adv.2
I leave this OFF until needed.
2 SEC: Helpful when you want to reduce blur caused by touching the shutter for slow shutter speeds. The self-timer lamp blinks as the timer counts down.
10 SEC: Use for photographs in which you wish to appear yourself. The self-timer lamp blinks immediately before the picture is taken.
INTERVAL TIMER SHOOTING
Pretty simple time lapse feature that is handy to have. In the first row you select the interval between shots in hours, minutes and seconds. In the second row you select the number of frames and then a new window pops up asking for the start time. If you just hit the OK button the time-lapse will start, otherwise you can set the start time for later.
NOTE1: Can not be used with B (bulb)
NOTE2: To continue shooting until the memory card is full, set the number of shots to ∞
Unlike the X-T1 which offered 3 metering modes, the X-T20 offers 4 modes: MULTI, CENTER WEIGHTED, SPOT and AVERAGE.
NOTE: Whatever you select here will only take effect when FACE/EYE DETECTION is turned OFF.
MECHANICAL: The mechanical shutter option is my personal preference. Studio and advertising photographers will be selecting this option more than anyone else simply because any strobe or flash work cannot be used with an electronic shutter; they are technically incompatible with each other. The use of any remote triggers such as the popular Pocket Wizards won’t fire unless you have selected the Mechanical shutter option.
MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC: Most users will be setting the Hybrid mode as their default shutter choice for obvious reasons - It gives you the best of both worlds. If ELECTRONIC SHUTTER or MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC is selected, shutter speeds faster than 1/4000s will be chosen automatically in Program AE and Aperture Priority AE or they can be chosen manually in Shutter Priority AE or Manual mode by rotating the shutter dial to 4000 and then rotating the front command dial to the desired speed.
NOTE: You can use flash / strobes and triggers with this mode since flash sync speeds are covered by the mechanical shutter, though I would advise selecting the mechanical shutter option just to be on the safe side and eliminate any incompatibility issues or other bugs.
ELECTRONIC: The big reason why so many of us Fuji users were and still are excited about the electronic shutter is that we are able to use wide open apertures in daylight without the need for an ND filter. The second reason is that an electronic shutter is completely silent - a big plus for many paying assignments which take place in nursery’s, theaters, churches or movie sets. For those who choose the ELECTRONIC shutter option, you do get the choice of adding some sound with the new SHUTTER SOUND and SHUTTER VOLUME options in the setup menu for a more positive shooting experience or muting the sound altogether. But there are some drawbacks with the ELECTRONIC shutter that you must be aware of before selecting it as your default choice. For starters it’s not recommended for very fast moving objects close to the lens due to the rolling shutter phenomenon. Secondly because of the way the exposure is taken (line by line) like a fast scanning process, most flickering light sources (eg: fluorescent, mercury, sodium etc) may produce unpleasant results with visible and obtrusive banding or even fogging effects. Last but not least, in Electronic shutter mode you can't use flash.
I have noticed better results in the finished image when selecting SHOOTING ONLY plus I like it better this way since it interferes less with my viewing and I have a feeling it may even conserve some power. You get 3 choices, CONTINUOUS, SHOOTING ONLY and OFF. The last option is recommended when the camera is on a tripod.
ISO AUTO1>(ISO 200 - 12800 @ 1/100sec)
ISO AUTO2>(ISO 800 - 12800 @ 1/100sec)
ISO AUTO3>(ISO 200 - 12800 @ 1/800sec)
For the majority of my photography, I prefer Aperture Priority mode and Auto WB in conjunction with ISO AUTO1. If I’m not using auto ISO, then I’m usually at ISO 200 or selecting it manually. And since Fuji gives us 2 more auto options, i have set AUTO2 ISO for those times when I may want to use Fuji’s AUTO DYNAMIC RANGE feature, thats why it starts at 800 ISO and i’ve set the 3rd option for those times when I might be needing fast shutter speeds to freeze some action.
NOTE: At ISO settings of H (25600 or 51200) mottling may appear and at ISO settings of L (100) dynamic range is reduced. These settings are usually avoided since they are not native to the sensor and don't offer a RAW file, only JPEG. There is talk that a future firmware may change this.
MOUNT ADAPTER SETTING
Here you can save all your non Fujinon lenses such as the Samyangs, or other format lenses using mounts, such as the Fujifilm M mount or some other branded mount such as my Kiwi mount. If you can’t find a corresponding size, just pick one you don’t need and reenter the size you want. In the 50mm slot, LENS 5, I have set 12mm for my Samyang lens.
If you need help connecting your camera with your smartphone, read this older article I did on the subject with my X-T1. It pretty much is the same thing.
RED EYE REMOVAL: Remove red-eye effects caused by the flash.
TTL-LOCK MODE: Instead of adjusting flash level with each shot, TTL flash control can be locked for consistent results across a series of photographs. Choices are LOCK WITH LAST FLASH (Flash is locked at the value metered) and LOCK WITH METERING FLASH (The camera emits a series of pre-flashes and locks flash output at the metered value).
LED LIGHT SETTING: Choose whether to use the flash unit’s LED video light (if available) as a catchlight or AF-assist illuminator when taking photos. Options are CATCHLIGHT, AF ASSIST, AF ASSIST + CATCHLIGHT and OFF.
MASTER SETTING: Choose a flash group (A, B, or C) for the flash mounted on the camera hot shoe when it functions as a master flash controlling remote flash units via FUJIFILM wireless optical flash control, or choose OFF to limit master flash output to a level that does not affect the final picture.
CH SETTING: Choose the channel used for communication between the master flash and remote flash units when using FUJIFILM optical wireless flash control. Separate channels can be used for different flash systems or to prevent interference when multiple systems are operating in close proximity.
Choose a frame size and rate for movie recording.
MOVIE AF MODE>AREA
Choose how the camera selects the focus point for movie recording. Two choices available, MULTI for automatic focus-point selection and AREA for a more pin point selection.
HDMI OUTPUT INFO DISPLAY>OFF
If ON is selected, HDMI devices to which the camera is connected will mirror the information in the camera display.
4K MOVIE OUTPUT>CARD
Choose the destination for 4K movies shot while the camera is connected to an HDMI recorder or other device that supports 4K. Choices are CARD or HDMI.
HDMI REC CONTROL>OFF
Choose whether the camera sends movie start and stop signals to the HDMI device when the shutter button is pressed to start and stop movie recording.
MIC LEVEL ADJUSTMENT>3
Adjust the recording level for the built-in and external microphones.
Specify whether the device connected to the microphone/remote release connector is a microphone or a remote release.
I recommend you format your card in camera before every new shoot and I would also advise against using the delete button if you can help it mostly to help reduce the chances of corruption to the folder/file tree structure. Most card problems seem to be with people who use the delete button on a frequent basis especially when combined with lower quality cards. This is why I will only use quality cards from companies such as Sandisk and Lexar. I also like to update them every couple of years just to be safe since all static memory devices have a limit for READS/WRITES.
NOTE: The fastest way to format your card is to keep the Delete button pressed for 2-3 seconds and before you let go hit the rear command dial. This will place you in the format menu where you just need to select the OK button for final confirmation.
Just set your local date and time.
If you are traveling to another country, this feature allows you to add the time difference required for your destination so you can switch the camera clock instantly from your home time zone to the local time at your destination.
If you don’t select English, the camera may show signs of slow focusing performance LOL.
MY MENU SETTING
Don't use this feature until you are well accustomed with your camera and have used it for a great deal of time. When the time comes and you feel comfortable with the menu and all the functions of the X-T20, only then do I suggest you start using this feature.
SENSOR CLEANING>WHEN SWITCHED OFF
The obvious choice for everyone here is to select WHEN SWITCHED OFF. I have found in the past with my Nikon cameras that this feature helps in a big way to keep the sensor as clean as possible. Choices are OK: Clean the sensor immediately, WHEN SWITCHED ON and WHEN SWITCHED OFF.
SOUND & FLASH>OFF
Select OFF to disable the speaker, flash, illuminator, and self-timer lamp in situations in which camera sounds and lights may be unwelcome.
f you require to ever reset your camera this is the place to do it. Select SHOOTING MENU RESET>OK and then SETUP RESET>OK. Resetting both menus will basically reset all options back to their factory default without affecting Custom WB, Custom Settings Banks, WiFi settings, Date, Time and Time difference.
Choose the volume of the beep that sounds when the camera focuses. The beep can be muted by selecting OFF. Options are: HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW and OFF.
SELF-TIMER BEEP VOL>MEDIUM
Choose the volume of the beep that sounds while the self-timer is active. The beep can be muted by selecting OFF. Options are: HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW, and OFF.
Adjust the volume of the sounds produced when camera controls are operated. Choose OFF to disable control sounds. Options are: HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW and OFF.
Adjust the volume of the sounds produced by the electronic shutter. Choose OFF to disable the shutter sound. Options are: HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW and OFF.
Choose the sound made by the electronic shutter. Three options to choose from
Adjust the volume for movie playback. Choose from 10 options between 10 (high) and 1 (low) or select OFF to mute audio during movie playback.
Adjust the brightness of the display in the electronic viewfinder. Select MANUAL to choose from 11 options from +5 (bright) to −5 (dark), or select AUTO for automatic brightness adjustment.
Adjust the hue of the display in the electronic viewfinder. Choose from 11 options between +5 and −5.
Adjust monitor brightness. Choose from 11 options between +5 and −5.
Adjust monitor hue. Choose from 11 options between +5 and −5.
Choose how long images are displayed after shooting. Options are CONTINUOUS, 1.5 SEC / 0.5 SEC and OFF. My personal choice is to set this to OFF. I don’t need to inspect every image plus it can become distracting while shooting. NOTE: From experience with other Fuji cameras, I have come to the conclusion that my biggest energy saving option is this one. With my X-T1 I used to get well over 500 shots with a fully charged Fujifilm battery and I’m pretty sure I will get similar results with the X-T20 as well. Plus I also don't leave the camera on, ever since my Nikon days, I will switch the camera on as i lift it to my face and switch it off after the shot unless I will be shooting soon afterwards. Most everyone who has contacted me complaining about low battery performance usually has the camera on for long periods of time forcing it constantly into sleep mode and using the rear LCD big time. These people are averaging less than 300 shots, a big difference. I’m still new to the X-T20 so haven’t yet clocked it but as soon as I get some useful results i will update this section.
EVF AUTOROTATE DISPLAYS>ON
Choose whether the indicators in the viewfinder rotate to match camera orientation. Regardless of the option selected, the indicators in the LCD monitor do not rotate.
PREVIEW EXP./WB IN MANUAL MODE> PREVIEW EXP./WB
I like this feature a lot and have it always selected. The EVF shows a very close approximation of the final image for a true WYSIWYG experience. Beware though, if you are going to shoot with flash/strobes you will want to set this Off to prevent a dark viewfinder. This is easily done since you can program a Fn button for this.
PREVIEW PIC. EFFECT>ON
Choose ON to preview the effects of film simulation, white balance, and other settings in the EVF and the LCD monitor. Choose OFF to make shadows in low-contrast, back-lit scenes and other hard-to-see subjects more visible.
Choose your favourite framing grid to help you in your compositions.
GRID 9: For “rule of thirds” composition.
GRID 24: A six-by-four grid.
HD FRAMING: Frame HD pictures in the crop shown by the lines at the top and bottom of the display.
I leave this OFF simply because I prefer to view the image I have just taken utilizing the whole screen – I don’t mind twisting the camera to view vertical shots.
FOCUS SCALE UNITS
Choose the units used for the focus distance indicator. M
DISP. CUSTOM SETTING
I have my selections for you ready but first let me suggest a good way to pick your own settings. Uncheck all options and then check one at a time as you view each one in the viewfinder. As you are looking through the EVF ponder on how useful the item really is to your shooting style. Also don’t forget that with all options selected, you are draining extra power only to have a cluttered screen. So my advice is to select only what is truly necessary. It will make your photography much more pleasurable.
AF DISTANCE INDICATOR>OFF
MF DISTANCE INDICATOR>OFF
HISTOGRAM>OFF (look below)
Expo. Comp. (Digit)>OFF
Expo. Comp. (Scale)>ON
DUAL IS MODE>OFF
TOUCH SCREEN MODE>ON
MOVIE MODE & REC. TIME>OFF
NOTE: Now that I have lived with Fuji's EVF for a good number of years, I have come to realize that for my people photography the histogram is a bit redundant. The WYSIWYG view in the EVF is more than enough to judge exposure. On the other hand landscapers may find it useful, to have it on simply because they often push the boundaries of the cameras dynamic range, so for them, the more precision they can get, the better!
This is where we get to choose what is shown in the Q menu. Highlight any of the following options and press MENU/OK to assign it to the selected position. IMAGE SIZE, IMAGE QUALITY, FILM SIMULATION *, GRAIN EFFECT *, DYNAMIC RANGE *, WHITE BALANCE *, HIGHLIGHT TONE *, SHADOW TONE *, COLOR *, SHARPNESS *, NOISE REDUCTION *, SELECT CUSTOM SETTING *, AF MODE, AF-C CUSTOM SETTINGS, FACE/EYE DETECTION SETTING, MF ASSIST, SELF-TIMER, PHOTOMETRY, SHUTTER TYPE, ISO, TOUCH SCREEN MODE, FLASH FUNCTION SETTING, FLASH COMPENSATION, MOVIE MODE, MIC LEVEL ADJUSTMENT, SOUND & FLASH, EVF/LCD BRIGHTNESS, EVF/LCD COLOR, NONE
NOTE: My choices are in BOLD.
Fn/AE-L/AF-L BUTTON SETTING
Choose the roles played by the function buttons.
Fn1: Wireless communication
Fn2: AF (See below: SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING)
Fn3: AF (See below: SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING)
Fn4: AF (See below: SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING)
Fn5: AF (See below: SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING)
AF-L: Face/Eye detection
R-DIAL: White Balance
SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING>FOCUS AREA
Choose the roles played by the up, down, left, and right buttons on the 4-way selector. Since I want quick access to my focus points I set this to FOCUS. Keep in mind that by following my choice, you lose 4 out of 8 possible function buttons. Try it for yourself.
COMMAND DIAL SETTING> F/SS
Choose the roles played by the command dials. If you prefer the the front command dial to control aperture and the rear dial to control shutter speed then select F/SS. If you want to reverse them select SS/F.
Two choices ON and OFF. Basically this is where you can choose to disengage AF from the shutter release.
Two choices ON and OFF. Basically this is where you can choose to disengage AE from the shutter release. If ON is selected, exposure will lock while the shutter button is pressed halfway.
SHOOT WITHOUT LENS>OFF
Choose ON to enable the shutter release when no lens is attached.
Choose the direction in which the focus ring is rotated to increase the focus distance.
AE/AF-LOCK MODE>: AE & AF ON WHEN PRESSING
I leave this alone since I have programmed these two buttons for other tasks. If you do use them, then the factory default (AE & AF ON WHEN PRESSING) locks both AE & AF as long as they are pressed down and unlock as soon as you let go. The other option (AE & AF ON/OFF SWITCH) needs only to be pressed once and the values lock and remain locked until the button is pressed again.
Choose the method used to adjust aperture when using lenses with no aperture rings.
AUTO+MANUAL: Rotate the front command dial to choose the aperture. Rotate past minimum aperture to choose A (auto).
AUTO: Aperture is selected automatically; camera functions in exposure mode P (program AE) or S (shutter-priority AE).
MANUAL: Rotate the front command dial to choose the aperture; camera functions in exposure mode A (aperture-priority AE) or M (manual).
TOUCH SCREEN SETTING: Enable or disable touch-screen controls.
Choose the length of time before the camera turns off automatically when no operations are performed. Shorter times increase battery life; if OFF is selected, the camera must be turned off manually.
PERFORMANCE> HIGH PERFORMANCE
Adjust power management settings. HIGH PERFORMANCE offers faster AF performance, brighter and better quality EVF/ LCD but at the cost of battery power.
SAVE DATA SETTING
Most everyone I know sets this to CONT. Every shot you take is numbered in succession meaning this is also a rough way to count how many actuations the camera has gone through. Another reason to choose this option is because it helps to reduce the number of pictures with duplicate file names. If you choose RENEW, file numbering will be reset to 0001 for every new shoot (after formatting or when a new memory card is inserted).
SAVE ORG IMAGE
Choose ON to save unprocessed copies of pictures taken using RED EYE REMOVAL.
EDIT FILE NAME
Here you can input what filename (actually prefix) you prefer for your photos. sRGB images use a four-letter prefix (default “DSCF”), Adobe RGB images a three-letter prefix (“DSF”) preceded by an underscore.
Unlike the X-T1, the new X-T20 and I presume the X-T2 and X-Pro2 now offer the ability to add Copyright info. Below is an example of how I have filled them out.
DISP COPYRIGHT INFO
ENTER AUTHOR'S INFO> John Caz
ENTER COPYRIGHT INFO> Copyright John Caz 2017. All rights reserved.
DELETE COPYRIGHT INFO
Choose a name (NAME) to identify the camera on the wireless network (the camera is assigned a unique name by default) or select RESET WIRELESS SETTINGS to restore default settings.
PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS
Choose an upload destination. SIMPLE SETUP, MANUAL SETUP. This tool helps connect with an WPS capable router either Automatically or Manually.Choose DELETE REGISTERED DESTINATION PC to remove selected destinations, DETAILS OF PREVIOUS CONNECTION to view computers to which the camera has recently connected.
Helps connect the camera to your smartphone for a small period of time and record the GPS coordinates from the phone to your images as they are taken. For more info look here
instax PRINTER CONNECTION SETTING
Here you input the FUJIFILM instax SHARE printers SSID for wireless connection
The Playback Menu
The settings that can be adjusted when converting pictures from RAW to JPEG are: REFLECT SHOOTING COND (just converts as is to JPEG), PUSH/PULL PROCESSING (Adjust exposure), DYNAMIC RANGE, FILM SIMULATION, GRAIN EFFECT, WHITE BALANCE, WB SHIFT, HIGHLIGHT TONE, SHADOW TONE, COLOR, SHARPNESS, NOISE REDUCTION, LENS MODULATION OPTIMIZER, and COLOR SPACE.
CROP: Create a cropped copy of the current picture. Use the rear command dial to zoom in and out and press the selector up, down, left, or right to scroll the picture until the desired portion is displayed.
RESIZE: Create a small copy of the current picture.
PROTECT: Protect one or more pictures from accidental deletion. Highlight one of the following options and press MENU/OK: FRAME, SET ALL or RESET ALL
IMAGE ROTATE: Press the selector down to rotate the picture 90° clockwise, up to rotate it 90° counterclockwise.
RED EYE REMOVAL: Remove red-eye from portraits. The camera will analyze the image; if red-eye is detected, the image will be processed to create a copy with reduced red-eye.
WIRELESS COMMUNICATION: Connect to smartphones running the “FUJIFILM Camera Remote” app. The smartphone can be used to browse the images on the camera, download selected images, control the camera remotely, or upload location data to the camera.
SLIDE SHOW: View pictures in an automated slide show. Press MENU/OK to start and press the selector right or left to skip ahead or back. Press DISP/BACK at any time during the show to view on-screen help. The show can be ended at any time by pressing MENU/OK.
PHOTOBOOK ASSIST: Create books from your favorite photos.
PC AUTO SAVE: Upload pictures from the camera to a computer running the “FUJIFILM PC AutoSave” application (note that you must first install the software and configure the computer as a destination for images copied from the camera).
PRINT ORDER (DPOF):
instax PRINTER PRINT: To print pictures to optional FUJIFILM instax SHARE printers, first select CONNECTION SETTING > instax PRINTER CONNECTION SETTING and enter the instax SHARE printer name (SSID) and password, then follow the steps below.
DISP ASPECT: Choose how High Definition (HD) devices display pictures with an aspect ratio of 3:2 (this option is available only when an HDMI cable is connected). Select 16:9 to display the image so that it fills the screen with its top and bottom cropped out, 3:2 to display the entire image with black bands at either side.