THE SETUP PROCESS
We need to also make sure that were starting from scratch by doing a factory reset. Navigate to the blue SETUP-UP menu and select RESET>SHOOTING MENU RESET> OK and then navigate to RESET>SETUP RESET> OK. Now that the camera has a fully charged battery, been updated and reset, let’s start configuring the camera.
SHOOTING MENU (RED)
FOCUS AREA> There are 5 sizes to select using the rear thumb wheel from largest (size 5) to smallest (size 1), with 3 being the default. From my experience so far, I find size 2 great for my everyday shooting style offering tremendous precision though most people I know prefer 3. If however you are finding that AF seems slow, especially with the older X100, then try 4 or even 5. Size 5 is less critical in its judgment, so offers very fast AF and reduces the chances for hunting.
NOTE1: If FOCUS AREA is unavailable, check whether you are currently in FACE DETECTION mode.
NOTE2: When you are adjusting an AF point, you can quickly set it to the default size by pressing on the rear command dial (Focus Assist button).
MACRO> Turn ON only when you need it, otherwise you’ll make the AF motor travel a larger distance to find focus, resulting in slower acquisition speeds. Also Macro mode forces the EVF over the OVF.
RELEASE/FOCUS PRIORITY> Like most cameras you get two options, Release the shutter as soon as you press the button and Focus where the camera will focus before it releases the shutter. I prefer FOCUS for both Single and Continuous AF since fior my style of shooting the camera is plenty fast and capable of focusing on the subject. Of course if you are shooting action with this camera, then Release may be an option for you.
INSTANT AF SETTING> When in Manual focus mode, you can hit the AF-L button to initiate focus and speed up the whole "manual" focusing process. I prefer its default setting of AF-S. Take note thought that AF performance degrades in this "manual" mode.
AF MODE> You get two choices, Multi and Area. Multi is an automatic mode where the camera chooses where to focus based on Face detection, closest distance and high contrast. My choice is for Area where I can select the focusing point.
FACE DETECTION> Face detection on the X100T is a powerful tool that actually delivers; it really is a great asset for portrait and people photographers. I have this option set to ON and have also set it to the front Fn button for quick and easy access. When the light starts to get low or the subject is less defined, then I will tap the Fn button to disengage Face detection and continue shooting.
PRE-AF> This setting I leave switched off. When set to ON, what it does is constantly focus as long as the camera is switched on. This is a feature that might interest a brute street photographer where he would have his subject already in focus by the time he lifts the camera to his eye! I don't like feeling and hearing the camera constantly working plus I would rather conserve battery power.
AF ILLUMINATOR> I switch this ON and OFF as needed. Most of the time, its OFF.
CORRECTED AF FRAME> If you use the OVF more than the EVF, then you may want to switch this to ON to correct for parallax error. Personally I use the EVF more and rather conserve some battery power by choosing OFF.
Although I use Manual settings a lot, my camera is usually set up with Aperture Priority in conjunction with Auto ISO and Auto WB. I usually set the ISO range from base 200 to a maximum of 6400 and my minimum shutter speed at 1/125sec. The minimum shutter speed is something that I might change, depending on the shooting conditions and the end result that I'm after.
NOTE: You can only select ISO H1, H2 or L(100) in JPG mode.
100 (AUTO if you are primarily a JPG shooter)
Plenty of Choices here, Provia, Velvia, Astia, Chrome, Pro Neg Hi, Pro Neg Std, Mono, Mono+Y, Mono+R, Mono+G, and Sepia. I'm usually happy with Provia but will choose Chrome for scenes with color overload. I also like using Monochrome +G for a lot of my portraits. For a more in depth look at Film sim's and tone options, look at and older blog post I did on the subject based on the X-T1 options here.
FILM SIMULATION BKT
A very nice feature and very useful. Used when needed.
-2 (I highly recommend to all Fuji users to set this to -2, since Fuji's NR can result in unrealistic plastic looking skin).
LONG EXPOSURE NR
OFF (I leave this off and will use it only when I start noticing that its really needed).
If you are an amateur I would suggest you leave this on AUTO. I usually have this on AUTO so my camera is ready to handle any situation as soon as it boots up.
NOTE1: If you are a pro on a working assignment I would recommend you select the right value for the shoot. It’s not important to be exact, but rather consistent. This will help later during both selection and post. During the selection process it will be easier to judge keepers with a common WB and in post it will be easier to change WB in a uniform manner across multiple images.
NOTE2: The CUSTOM setting is useful when in difficult low light situations. Once selected a large rectangle shows up on the screen which you point at a neutral color (white, grey or black) such as a sheet of A4 paper and press the shutter – immediately you will see the WB change to the technically correct value. Of course you can always change the technically correct WB later in post processing if you desire to change the mood of the image.
SELECT CUSTOM SETTINGS
Fuji offers seven custom setting slots for saving different settings for different shooting needs. Shame you can’t name them.
EDIT/SAVE CUSTOM SETTING
Personally I don't use them.
FUNCTION (fn) SETTING
My choices are Fn1=Face Detection, Fn6=ND Filter, Fn7=WiFi, Fn2/Fn3/Fn4/Fn5=Focus Area
DISPLAY CUSTOM SETTING
Here you choose what is displayed on the OVF and the EVF. My choices are OVF = Framing Guideline, Aperture/Speed/ISO, Exp. Compensation, Flash, Battery Level and for the EVF = Aperture/Speed/ISO, Exp. Compensation, Flash, Battery Level.
When adding a conversion lens, you don't have to waist time digging into the menu to set this option, but if you do, you will allow the inbuilt converter to utilize that info for better JPG’s. I on the other hand shoot RAW as well, so if I’m in a hurry, i don't bother going into the menu to set this up since most RAW converters don't read the EXIF info about the added lens anyway plus the difference in the JPG’s is small anyway. Try it and decide for yourself.
There are 3 options for how the MF ASSIST option can help. Out of the 3 options the one I like best is FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT. The STANDARD option is very basic and the DIGITAL SPLIT IMAGE is not that easy to use since the split is a bit hard to distinguish unless crossing a contrasty straight edge - maybe useful for architectural photographers. The FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT option on the other hand is great for anyone wanting to nail focus quickly and with a great deal of precision. I personally select the RED(HIGH) option.
This is a nice set of filters that is probably more useful to all JPG shooters and generally those users that own this camera without owning a computer.
INTERVAL TIMER SHOOTING
A very powerful and handy tool that's simple to use and setup. In the first three rows you select the interval between shots in hours, minutes and seconds. In the fourth row you select the number of frames and then a new window pops up asking for the start time. If you just hit the OK button the time-lapse will start, otherwise you can set the start time for later.
You get to choose 2sec or 10sec.
You get two choices, ON WHEN PRESSING or ON/OFF SWITCH. They are pretty much self explanatory, take your pick. I personally leave them as is on the PRESSING option.
Three choices, AE LOCK ONLY, AF LOCK ONLY, AE/AF LOCK. My choice is AE LOCK ONLY.
Here we get three choices: MULTI, SPOT and AVERAGE. Usually I leave this on MULTI which is surprisingly accurate even under the most extreme of lighting conditions. When combined with the excellent Exposure Compensation dial of the X100 series, I get the exposures exactly how I want them every-time.
INTERLOCK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA
Select ON to have the spot metering sensor tag along the AF area position so whatever you focus on is also your spot metering sample! (as long as Spot is selected as the metering of choice).
RED EYE REMOVAL
In case you use the above option, choose ON to save unprocessed copies of pictures taken using RED EYE REMOVAL.
Plenty of choices here. Select between FORCED FLASH, SLOW SYNCRO, COMMANDER, EXTERNAL FLASH and SUPPRESSED FLASH. Choose as required, but usually OFF. If using a flash trigger, select EXTERNAL. A good flash for the X100 series cameras is the i40 by Nissin.
I prefer to set this to -1 stop for portraits up close.
My preference is for MS and only use ES for certain situations which warrant it.
MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC> If ELECTRONIC SHUTTER or MECHANICAL+ELECTRONIC is selected, shutter speeds faster than 1/4000s will be chosen automatically in Program AE and Aperture Priority AE or they can be chosen manually in Shutter Priority AE or Manual mode by rotating the rear command dial. Plus you can use flash / strobes and triggers with this mode since flash sync speeds are covered by the mechanical shutter, though I would still select the mechanical shutter option if using flash / strobes regularly for eliminating any incompatibility issues or other bugs.
ELECTRONIC> Selecting the ELECTRONIC shutter is of great use to photographers who need to shoot in complete silence and this is a very common need for a lot of working professionals especially in nursery’s, theaters, churches or movie sets (no more sound blimp necessary). For those who choose the ELECTRONIC shutter option, you do get the choice of adding some sound with the new SHUTTER SOUND and SHUTTER VOLUME options in the setup menu for a more positive shooting experience. Also take note that the longest electronic shutter speed is 1sec and the ISO is restricted between 200-6400. But there are some drawbacks with the ELECTRONIC shutter that you must be aware of before selecting it as your default choice. Please read the ELECTRONIC SHUTTER towards the end of the article.
MECHANICAL> The mechanical shutter option is my default selection. Studio and advertising photographers will be selecting this option more than anyone else simply because any strobe or flash work cannot be used with an electronic shutter; they are technically incompatible with each other. The use of any remote triggers such as the popular Pocket Wizards won’t fire unless you have selected the Mechanical shutter option.
MOVIE MODE> 1920X1080 60FPS
MIC LEVEL ADJUSTMENT> 2
MIC/REMOTE RELEASE> If using an aftermarket release that uses the MIC port, you'll need to set this to REMOTE.
Just connect using my How to article here.
SETUP MENU (BLUE)
Just set your local date and time. I have found that over long periods, the time and date may go off, so I recommend a couple times a year to check and correct if needed.
If you are traveling to another part of the planet, this feature allows you to add the time difference required for your destination of travel.
If you don’t select English, the camera may explode LOL
If you require to ever reset your camera this is the place to do it. Select SHOOTING MENU RESET> OK and then SETUP RESET>OK. Resetting both menus will basically reset all options back to their factory default without affecting Date, Time and Language.
If you think this is for you then select ON. But double think about what you are disabling with this option. Unfortunately apart from all sounds, this mode will also disable all flash capabilities together with the focus illuminator. I highly recommend you leave this set to OFF unless you really know what you need it for. This was previously labelled the SILENT mode.
Two options, CONTINUOUS and RENEW. I choose CONTINUOUS out of habit since this way i get a rough number of actuation’s. But this is pretty redundant on this camera, since unlike other Fuji cameras, the X100 series offers a builtin counter.
Here you get two choices for the direction the focus ring works. So both Nikon and Canon shooters get to select their direction of choice: CW or CCW. I leave this on Clockwise.
OPERATION VOLUME> 1
SHUTTER VOLUME> 1
SHUTTER SOUND> 1
PLAYBACK VOL> Level 5
NOTE: I like to be able to hear what the camera is doing so I set both OPERATION and SHUTTER to the lowest volume level possible but not OFF. Some prefer total silence, but I find it difficult to work sufficiently with no sound what so ever.
IMAGE DISP> This will govern how long to show your captured image or not to show it at all. Choices are 1.5sec, 0.5sec or continuously (until the user presses the Menu/OK button or the shutter release). My personal choice is to set this to OFF. I don’t need to inspect every image plus it can become distracting while shooting. NOTE: From experience, i now know that that my biggest energy saving option is this one.
EVF AUTOROTATE DISPLAYS> I have this feature turned ON.
PREVIEW EXP. WB IN MANUAL MODE> I like this feature a lot and have it always selected (EXP/WB). The EVF shows an approximation of the final image and its a really nice feature. Beware though, if you are going to shoot with strobes in Manual mode, you will have to set this Off to prevent a dark viewfinder or switch to the OVF.
MONITOR SUNLIGHT MODE> OFF
EVF BRIGHTNESS> AUTO
EVF COLOR> 0
LCD BRIGHTNESS> 0
LCD COLOR> 0
PREVIEW PIC EFFECT> ON (For more info check out the WYSIWYG section below)
FRAMING GUIDELINE> GRID 9
AUTOROTATE PB> Since I don’t mind twisting the camera to view vertical shots I leave this option to OFF simply because I prefer to utilize the whole screen.
FOCUS SCALE UNITS> METERS
Two options: Fn BUTTONS or FOCUS. Since i want quick access to my focus points i set this to FOCUS. Keep in mind that by following my choice, you loose 4 out of 7 possible function buttons.
EDIT/SAVE QUICK MENU
From here you can set up your Quick menu options. I personaly dont use the Q menu, but have spent the time to populate it with items i may use when in a quick hurry, here is my list:
AUTO POWER OFF> 2MIN
HIGH PERFORMANCE> I have this switched ON so as to assure I get the best performance from the camera.
This number reveals the number of actuation's.
EDIT FILE NAME
Here you can input what filename you prefer for your photos.
GENERAL SETTINGS> NAME> FUJIFILM-X-T1-0EBE,
GENERAL SETTINGS> RESET WIRELESS SETTING
RESIZE IMAGE FOR SMARTPHONE> ON
PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS> Here you can delete any previous WiFi settings that are cached in the cameras memory
PC AUTO SAVE SETTINGS
SIMPLE SETUP, MANUAL SETUP. This tool helps connect with an WPS capable router either Automatically or Manually.
Helps connect the camera to your smartphone for a small period of time and record the GPS coordinates from the phone to your images as they are taken.
INSTAX PRINTER CONNECTION SETTING
Here you input the printers SSID for wireless connection
If you don’t know the answer to this, then set it to sRGB, end of subject. The Adobe RGB option is for those photographers who insist on tagging JPEG files with such a color space. NOTE1: Fuji’s RAW file is just raw data that can be put into a certain color space later when in your favorite RAW converter. NOTE2: Your choice of color space (sRGB or Adobe RGB) will affect the way your images are displayed on the rear LCD and EVF. I leave this to sRGB.
I recommend you format your card in-camera before every shooting session!
Even though I don't have anything much to say about the PLAYBACK MENU, I'm including it here as a reminder to a lot of you that it actually exists! To get to it, hit the PLAY button to bring up an image and then the OK button to bring up the PLAYBACK MENU. This is the menu with your on-board RAW converter that makes those most beautiful JPEG's. Shame we cant get that same converter on our computer.
ES is generally not recommended for fast moving subjects due to the rolling shutter phenomenon. This is because the electronic shutter scans the image horizontally across the sensor in thick strips, which in some cases may even deform your moving subject. If you shoot a spinning fan or get someone to wave his hands fast enough close to the lens, then you may get the rolling shutter effect but otherwise for the majority of everyday subjects the phenomenon should not show up.
Secondly most flickering light sources (eg: fluorescent, mercury, sodium etc) may produce unpleasant results with visible and obtrusive banding or even fogging effects. Under a continuous light source such as daylight ES works just fine.
Last but not least, in ES mode you can't use flash. You have to be in Mechanical or Mechanical+Electronic shutter mode for flash to work. This practically means that ES is not a sensible choice for the studio or any assignment that would require flashes, strobes or triggers.
The big reason why ES is such a big plus to have, is because we are able to use wide open apertures in daylight without the need for an ND filter. The second reason is that an electronic shutter is completely silent - a big plus for many paying assignments in super quiet environments!
• AUTOFOCUS SETTING>FOCUS AREA> Size 2 for precision, Size 4 for speed
• AUTOFOCUS SETTING>AF MODE> AREA
• AUTOFOCUS SETTING>PRE-AF> OFF
• LONG EXPOSURE NR> OFF
• INTERLOCK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA> ON
• POWER MANAGEMENT>HIGH PERFORMANCE> ON
• BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>FUNCTION (Fn) SETTING>Fn1> FACE DETECTION
• BUTTON/DIAL SETTING>SELECTOR BUTTON SETTING> FOCUS AREA